a youth ceremony in Bali

It was the weekend before our wedding in April 2007 and my fiancée and I were wandering around Bali. On a whim, I decided to go to Seminyak, a beach that is increasingly becoming popular as its neighbor, the overwhelmingly commercial center that is Kuta.







We were to get married on an auspicious day in the Balinese calendar (near full moon I remember) so the days around it also tend to be ceremony-heavy. Sure enough, when we dropped by the temple at Seminyak, there already was a crowd hovering by the beach. Practically all were teenagers, with nary an adult guiding them. Too bad I forgot to ask what the occasion was. Maybe it was the commemoration of Saraswati, when students would offer gifts to the goddess of the knowledge and learning. Or perhaps not.







Regardless, I can understand why Bali’s culture remains safe from the dilution of modernity and influence from the external world. Even the youth knows the wisdom of tradition. The heartfelt and easygoing manner they went by the ceremony, from the beach to the temple, showed that custom and faith are in safe hands.

more wild krupuk

So you thought the krupuk here looks outlandish and different? I went back to the same store in Tabanan and my friend took out even more wildly colorful and gorgeously patterned crackers.













With patterns resembling onion-peels and shapes like extruded woven biscuits, the krupuk can be anything in Indonesia. Imagination has no limitations.

the reliefs of Taman Ujung in Karangasem

Taman Ujung, or officially Taman Soekasada Ujung, is an architectural experiment completed in 1919 by King of Karangasem who blended European classic design and traditional Balinese esthetics. The complex is a water palace with pavilions and bridges built over large ponds .










It has suffered extensive damage during the eruption of Gunung Agung in 1963 and during the violent tremblor in 1970. While there are never-ending but unfulfilled plans of further reconstruction, there is enough glimpse of the artistic heights that this palace achieved. Amidst the ruins and the state of disrepair, the palace promontories still offer killer views of the Gunung Agung in the West and the Lombok Strait in the East.










Also notable are the extant bas reliefs in the surviving pavilions, terraces, fences and bridges which depicted characters derived from Hindu legends, most probably from Mahabharata.

Chinese delights in Kuta’s Furama

Over the years of travel, I’ve etched into memory the restaurants which never fail me when it comes to taste and experience. When it comes to Cantonese food in Bali, one of my favorites happens to be the most convenient too in terms of location. Just a few minutes from the airport, Furama is typical Chinese: little frills, fast service, and moderately price.


nighttime scene in Furama



my favorite craving: freshly steamed shrimps



bird’s nest soup


Furama’s specialty is seafood, which is obvious with the giant prawn sign on its façade. Amidst the stiff competition in the tourist haven that is Bali, Furama manages to stand out not just to me but to the many patrons that continuously fill the place without fail. It still is true, when choosing a restaurant, go to where people flock. The majority often can’t be all wrong.


highly recommended: steamed fish in soy



mixed vegetables with tofu



Chinese vegetables with garlic


To go: FURAMA is in Jalan Raya Tuban 52B, Kuta, Bali, Indonesia.

hand embroidery, Balinese style

If wood carving were the artistic domain of men, women are traditionally associated with the fine art form in embroidery. In pre-colonial times however, Balinese women were known to go topless. Fine cut and pierced or lace embroidery may not exactly be a Balinese art after all in a historical perspective. The fact remains that when Dutch mores of modesty were implemented early in the 20th century, the requirement to be fully clothed in public was met with resentment by women and going bare was used as a form of protest.




In modern times, Bali has already fully adopted full clothing, especially in the context of Indonesia being a predominantly Muslim country. Like the rest of the nation, Balinese costume wear is derivative of the kebaya blouses native to the Javanese.




But despite being late in the game, Balinese women, judging from the quality of lace work displayed in several artisan shops spread all over the island, already have become master embroiders in their own right.

pining for more wood carvings

It’s like a malady. I’m hooked on wood carvings, particularly those from Bali . My particular addiction dates back almost 10 years now and my collection is growing.







When in Bali, I also make it a point to visit workshops to personally select which pieces I would like to bring back. As wood is heavy and luggage allowances are limited, I am finicky with what I buy.







In my next trip to Bali next week, I probably would visit this particular Denpasar shop. I’ll be ordering something big and probably would have it shipped to Cebu. Call me excited.

rediscover some Sukawati treasures

The art market of Sukawati Bali is one of my favorite haunts. Practically every handicraft sold in Bali can be found there in cheap prices. Quality could be suspect but if you know where to look for, a deal is always there to be had. Here is a selection of some novelties that were begging to be photographed.


a miniature 3-layer pajeng umbrella set



frangipani flowers being dried



some kitchen or ceremonial straw items that I cannot identify



some Balinese altars



traditional Balinese offerings in front of a shrine at the market



wooden buddhas for sale

crackling the krupuk

Krupuk, kropek, keropok… These crackling chips are ubiquitous in East and Southeast Asia. Coming often as prawn crackers, they are served as starters in a lot of Asian restaurants for the diners to munch while they wait for their main courses.


a collage of krupuk for sale at a village store in Tabanan, Bali, Indonesia



orange-edged krupuk



flower-shaped crackers


In Indonesia though, these crackers are serious business and they come in countless forms, sizes, colors and flavors like nuts, vegetables, fowl, seafood or meat. A visit in a village store in Tabanan, Bali show so much varieties that boggle the eyes. Displayed in sacks or large plastic bags, they literally sell fast as krupuk is basic side dish fare in Bali and is even commonly used as offering.


krupuk with what seem to be peanuts, beans or tempe



fish-flavored krupuk



pink krupuk with yellow trim


As for me, I often would bring pack of krupuk of the Tanjung brand. These are not available in the supermarket though and I have to order them from Sidoarjo, East Java. This city is probably one of the most renowned centers of manufacture of Indonesian krupuk although I hear that West Java’s Garut produces fine krupuk as well.


a typical crowd jostling to buy krupuk at the Tanjung store in Sidoarjo, East Java



colored krupuk


Recipes vary from shop to shop but the basic ingredients are the same: tapioca flour, egg, sugar, salt, spices and flavor essence. These are mixed in large vats and then the dough is rolled thin, steamed, and then sliced or cut before sun-drying. The krupuk are sold wafer-thin but they expand like popcorn when deep-fried. As expected, these crackers absorb so much oil during frying so they are not the healthiest food. But like many fans of the krupuk, I am not complaining.


multicolored-trimmed krupuk



plain krupuk