Take me back to Mambacayao, Bantayan- part 1

Four and a half hours of land and sea travel were no mean task by any account. We had to wake up early so that we could leave the big city (Cebu) by 6AM. Hagnaya, San Remigio, our takeoff point, was about 110 km away so starting at the break of the day would allow us to skip the heavy morning traffic.


the vast beach of shifting sand of Mambucayao Island, Bantayan, Cebu, the Philippines
Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/3200s, f/5.0, 18mm, ISO 100, -1/3EV


At a private port, we hired fishing boat to take us to the southwestern islands of Bantayan. The boat was a large hulk but it sliced through the waters effortlessly. The weather, after a week of stormy conditions, was perfect – no sign of rain, no whirling winds, only terrific sunshine. You hardly could tell that the day before, rains were so strong we had to cancel the trip to the seaweed farm.


farmers planting seaweed at Mambucayao Island, Bantayan, Cebu
Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/2500s, f/5.6, 45mm, ISO 100, -1/3EV


I’ve been to Bantayan before but our destination were the smaller islets way out southwest, nearer to Negros Occidental than to Bantayan. Far from easy transport and totally unheard of in the urban world of Cebu, the islands are tiny specks in the middle of Visayan sea, with sandy white beaches, coconut-fringed coves and clear lagoons.


the north shore of Mambucayao Island, Bantayan, Cebu
Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/1600s, f/7.1, 18mm, ISO 100, -1/3EV


One island stands out. Its name is Mambacayao.


Mambucayao Island, Bantayan, Cebu
Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/800s, f/9.0, 18mm, ISO 100


there’s more of the Bantayan islands in Mambacayao (part 1) and (part 2)

old school music in Loboc, Bohol

Traditional funerals are accompanied by brassband music. Funeral dirges are played by community musicians who will lead the mourning march, first, from the house of the deceased to the church (for requiem mass) and last, to the cemetery. One always knows a funeral by the slow sad music being played. Nowadays in urban centers not like Loboc where I took this picture, bands are slowly replaced by loudspeakers blaring out taped music or song. Sometimes, there will be none at all for expediency.


at Loboc Church, Bohol, the Philippines
Canon EOS 350D Digital, 4/5s, f/9, 48mm, ISO 100, +1/3EV

the rice terraces of Bali

Green rice terraces are famous all over Bali. The island after all has a love affair with rice. The Balinese are such efficient rice-growers in Indonesia that they often have enough harvests to sell or give away. Mystical as always, they plant varieties in white (beras), red (gaga) and black (injin). To complete the magical notion of 4 directions (like north, south, west, east), they use turmeric spice to introduce a 4th color to rice: yellow.


Jatiluwih, Tabanan, Bali, Indonesia
Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/6s, f/22, 18mm, ISO 100


There is always something peaceful in the undiluted sight of rice paddies. Maybe it's the romantic promise of a simple life that we, cityfolks sometimes crave. Behind the poetry of falling water and the grace of the terraces lie the story of labor and labor. In every promise of bountiful grain is the prayer for dutiful rain and favorable prices.


Tegalalang, Ubud, Bali, Indonesia
Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/160s, f/5.6, 55mm, ISO 400


Bali used to farm more rice that it can consume. There was a time that it sells excess produce to the other islands. However, with the increasing pressures of population, the island now has to import some its rice requirements. The conversion of arable land into human "development" sites is a constant threat. Meantime, while we still can, let us appreciate the visual art of agriculture.


the popular Bukit Jambul, Karengasem, Bali, Indonesia
Canon PowerShot S40, 1/60s, f/8, 7.1mm



Tabanan, Bali, Indonesia
Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/250s, f/8, 49mm, ISO 100, -1/3EV

beautifully desolate is a place called Sekotong

Lombok is blessed. Only 25 minutes away by plane from Bali, it has a coastline that rival the best of Bali but minus the crowds and for now, the egregious development. Among the innumerable beaches and lagoons that I’ve been lucky to visit is a still undiscovered place with a sing-song name, Sekotong in the bay of Siung in Lombok Barat.


an endearing mother and child pair in Sekotong, Lombok
Canon PowerShot S40, 1/125s, f/4, 7.1mm


Getting there was tedious to say the least. While my friends said that it is only about 50 km southwest from the airport, it probably is further than that for getting there took us more than 2 hours. The road was winding and narrow. Access by boat is also possible and it is a little more than 30 minutes by speedboat from Lembar harbor or from Senggigi.


the puffed sail of our small boat while we went around the gili islands in Sekotong, Lombok Barat, Indonesia
Canon PowerShot S40, 1/320s, f/5, 7.1mm


Aside from the prerequisite requirement of white sand, Sekotong is a springboard of a number of small islets (like Gili Asahan, Gili Gede and Gili Poh). Further west in Tanjung Bangko-Bangko is worldclass surfing as well. Then, there are panoramic views of Mt Agung to the East and Mt Rinjani in the Northwest.

Nothing much is happening there for now. While there is a friendly local market and an accessible fish port, the Pelabuhan Poh (Port of Poh), the place was truly desolate place and empty.


a woman curing the freshly harvested tongkol fish with salt, before boiling. The resulting delicacy is called pindang and is popular in Indonesia; in Pelabuhan Poh, Sekotong, Lombok Barat, Indonesia
Canon PowerShot S40, 1/60s, f/4, 8.6mm


In most of Eastern Lombok – take the capital Mataram for instance – Balinese comprise at least 50% of the population. More so here in Sekotong, where the Balinese are an almost overwhelming majority. Nothing makes you feel that Lombok is Bali 50 years ago more than that.

the Cacing Diaries #25

In two weeks time, Cacing will be celebrating her first full year. Unbelievable how time moves swiftly! Excitedly, we are already planning the big day, conjuring ideas for the party decors, making the invites (origami card and envelope!) and embellishing her tutu dress. Meanwhile, the ever innocent Cacing just looks at us unmindful of our harried ways and unstressed of the approaching date.


Hide and seek is still a favorite play
Canon EOS 5D Digital, 1/80s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 1600


Ever the innocent, she goes on her merry way. She still cannot stand on her own but, not that she stops trying. It is now easy for her to sit down from being on her stomach. She can cruise and walk along the railing of her crib. Being such an expert crawler already, she can also scramble on all fours – sometimes too quick for us and her nanny.


Chocolate is probably her favorite food but we try not to indulge her too much
Canon EOS 5D Digital, 1/200s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 800, +4/3EV


She laughs and shrieks when in the mood. Her motor skill already are fine and she can easily pick up tiny objects with her thumb and finger, roll a ball and steal our eyeglasses off us.


She uses her finger to point what she wants
Canon EOS 5D Digital, 1/1600s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 800, +2/3EV


When I leave for work early in the morning, she waves at me bye-bye. Other command words that she now understands include “clap your hands” and surprisingly “hello” which is a take of us using the cell phone. To her, it means putting her left hand on her ear.



Cacing loves balloons immensely
Canon EOS 5D Digital, 1/50s, f/1.8, 50mm, ISO 1600, +1/3EV


Jargon becomes her as she conjures syllables out of nowhere. There are the dada, papa or mama, among other inventions. Obviously, you should know what our favorites already are.


Cacing likes listening to adult conversations
Canon EOS 5D Digital, 1/100s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 1600

watching out for the zebus of Madagascar

In the scorched stretch between Vohemar and Sambava in Northeast Madagascar, landscapes were of pastures, woods and farms. Settlements were sparse. However, we had to stop or slow down at least eight times, not for some comfort need or for gas but to let hulking animals pass by before us. As cattle go, they took their time. The cattle, known as Madagascar zebus or Bos primigenius indicus, were proving to be dangerous traffic stoppers for they roam across the road in hordes. While cattle rustling or pilferage are common in the big cities, zebus in the north still enjoy freedom all over the rolling hills, leas and hi-ways. According to our contact, 5 wild zebus are typical roadkills in the 150km road from Sambava airport to the port city of Vohemar. That's not to say the loss in life and property that goes with the accidents.


holding up traffic at Vohemar, Madagascar
Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/125s, f/8.0, 55mm, ISO 100


The original zebus, sometimes known as "humped cattle", probably were native from the Indian subcontinent but disappeared due to interbreeding with domestic cattle. Zebus came to Africa for hundreds of years through ships and interbred with taurine cattle but relatively pure unnadulterated breed still thrives in Madagascar.


a tethered zebu at Vohemar, Madagascar
Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/160s, f/5.6, 55mm, ISO 100


Coming in many colors and sporting lyre-shaped horns, the zebus are still bred for meat, milk and burden like they always have been. Some things never go out of fashion.


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/200s, f/5.6, 18mm, ISO 100

the Burnayan of Vigan

Outside of Luzon especially in the Visayas, mentioning the word Vigan makes people think of a lot of things- the longganisa, the living movie set that is Calle Crisologo, the brick tiles and not least of all, the burnay or the large earthenware jar Vigan jar. Think of vessels valued customarily used for bagoong (fish sauce) and sugarcane wine.


antique burnays on display at Crisologo Museum (photo by my wife)


In one visit to Vigan, Ilocos Sur in 2005, we saw how the Vigan jar is made in Barangay VII more popularly known as Pagburnayan. Up to this date, this southwesternmost part of the poblacion is where all the burnay camarin (cottage factories) are located. Unsurprisingly, the manufacture of burnay essentially remains faithful to the technique introduced some five hundred years ago by Chinese artisans. The primary material is the rich red Ilocos clay. When fashioned by hand on a potter’s wheel, mixed with find sand (“anay") as tempering material and baked at a high temperature in a huge brick-and-clay ground kiln, burnay is known to be stronger than ordinary terra cotta.


a craftsman at a burnayan in Vigan City, Ilocos Sur


Its commercial ascendance actually came in the late 1800s when burnay technology was revived in Vigan by a new wave of Chinese immigrants. Its main proponent was a direct descendant of Fidel Go, owner of the Ruby Pottery and sometime nominee in the Gawad Manlilikha ng Bayan (National Folk Artist Award) of the National Commission on Culture and the Arts for artistry in the craft.

At present, burnay is used for decorative functions, coming in new shapes, sizes and designs from the plant pots and fanciful ashtrays. To most of us though, burnay still means oversized jars. Some images are difficult to shake off.


traditional large burnay for sale at Vigan

the beauties of Sinulog 2009

What is a Sinulog blog without an album of beautiful ladies? Beauty spotting is a photographic sport and there is nothing like the Sinulog to bring in a multitude of Filipinas who bring charm and allure to the festival. Best of all, they are there for the show, willing to be put under the looking glass. For once, we can photograph them with impunity.


Sinulog 2009 Festival Queen and her Court

A relatively new tradition, the Sinulog Festival Queen competition is unique for it is a pageant only for lead dancers of a contingent participating in the street parade. Wearing the most outlandish and humongous of dresses reminiscent of international beauty contest’s National Costumes, the lead dancers are presented in a showdown of dancing prowess and wit. Winning this year’s competition is a a winsome lass from Tangub, Misamis Occidental followed by representatives of Dulag, Leyte and Sta Catalina, Negros Oriental.



Iris Mae Linganay of Sinanduloy Cultural Troupe, Tangub City, Misamis Occidental- Sinulog 2009 Festival Queen
Canon EOS 5D Digital, 1/160s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 50, +2/3EV



Ariane May Briones of Tribu Karatong, Dulag, Leyte- Sinulgo 2009 Festival Queen 1st Runner-up
Canon EOS 5D Digital, 1/100s, f/5.6, 55mm, ISO 50, +2/3EV



Alfe Marie Nathaniel Uy of Pakol Festival of Sta Catalina, Negros Oriental and Sinulog 2009 Festival Queen 2nd Runner-up
Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/800s, f/5.6, 55mm, ISO 400


more lead dancers of the contingents

I’ve always wondered why is it that the star dancer chosen among a bevy of performers also happen to be not just the most graceful but also the most gorgeous? Does nature automatically grant terpsichorean skill to the beautiful?



the lead dancer of Lumad Basakanon, Cebu City
Canon EOS 5D Digital, 1/125s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 50, +1/3EV



the lead dancer of Tribu Kabatok of Tacloban City, Leyte
Canon EOS 5D Digital, 1/400s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 50, +1/3EV



the lead dancer of Karasikas Performing Arts Guild of Borongan City, Samar
Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/400s, f/5.6, 55mm, ISO 400, +1/3EV



the lead dancer of Tribu Buyogan of Abuyog, Leyte
Canon EOS 5D Digital, 1/160s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 50, +1/3EV



the lead dancer of Lanao del Norte
Canon EOS 5D Digital, 1/400s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 50, +2/3EV



the lead dancer of the Cebu City guest contingent (?)
Canon EOS 5D Digital, 1/200s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 50, +1/3EV



the lead dancer of Pajo Elementary School, Lapu-Lapu City
Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/50s, f/13, 22mm, ISO 400, -1/3EV



the lead dancer of Lahug Elementary School
Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/30s, f/9.0, 18mm, ISO 200



lead dancer of Tribu Magrararug of Punta Princesa Elementary School
Canon EOS 5D Digital, 1/50s, f/3.2, 100mm, ISO 50, +1/3EV



a lead dancer of one of the contingents
Canon EOS 5D Digital, 1/400s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 50, +4/3EV


choice dancers

Among the numerous dancers of a contingent, a few also stood out. Charisma, after all, cannot be hidden for long.



a dancer of Kawayan Elementary School of Dalaguete
Canon EOS 5D Digital, 1/800s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 50



a member of the San Diego Dance Company
Canon EOS 5D Digital, 1/160s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 50, +2/3EV



a member of contingent from the Municipality of Carmen
Canon EOS 5D Digital, 1/160s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 50, +2/3EV


the Sinulog 2009 series includes
the Sinulog Saturday procession and fireworks
Sinulog 2009 grand street parade part 1 (winners),
part 2 (the Sinulog-based contingents)
part 3 (the Free Interpretation contingents), and
the Sinulog beauties

the street frenzy of Sinulog 2009, part 3 (Free Interpretation contingents)

Every year, the most contested category in the Sinulog grand parade is the Free Interpretation. This year was no exception as about 27 teams vied for the crown. Unlike the Sinulog-based category which requires participating groups to follow traditional beat, music, costumes and dance steps, the Free Interpretation category allows more outlandish costumes and non-standard choreography.

Outside of the top 5 which won this year, numerous contingents nevertheless impressed the crowd with their spectacular motifs, dramatic storylines, lively moves and dedicated intensity. As they say, there is always next year.


Tribu Tostado of Santander

The group has the special distinction of being led by Cebu Provincial Governer Gwen Garcia. As a special non-competing guest, they showcased the town’s well-known tostado biscuit. Their choreography unique featured how the tostado is made with the dancers demonstrating steps such as beating, kneading and baking the cookie mix.


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/40s, f/16, 28mm, ISO 400


Hinulawan Dancers of Toledo City, Cebu

West Cebu’s Toledo City, formerly known as Pueblo Hinulawan in the 1800s, sent a contingent to represent its Hinulawan Festival. The festival is fairly new, having been started only last year and features Sinulog-style streetdancing.


Canon EOS 5D Digital, 1/200s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 50, +4/3EV


Mantawi of Mandaue City, Cebu

The city of Mandaue is trying to rev up promotions for the Mantawi Festival which was first organized in 2002. The celebration date has been moved several times from being coincided on the city’s charter day to the last week of August and recently to fall on the town fiesta in May. City officials are heavily hyping Mantawi as as a complement to the big fiestas of Sinulog and Kadaugan sa Mactan.


Canon EOS 5D Digital, 1/400s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 50, +1/3EV


Tikyabang of Gen. Luna, Siargao Island, Surigao del Norte

In the past, the Surigao City troupe of Bonok-bonok Maradjaw Karadjaw used to lord it over the competition. This year, Surigaonons were represented colorfully by Surigao del Norte’s Tikyabang Festival of General Luna, Siargao Island, also known as the surfing capital of the Philippines. Vibrant and different, the contingent had a small army of boys wearing crab costumes. Too bad they did not land a spot.


Canon EOS 5D Digital, 1/125s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 50, -1/3EV



Canon EOS 5D Digital, 1/40s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 50, -1/3EV


Kabatok of Tacloban City, Leyte

The contingent came from Tacloban, Leyte and were actually champions on their own rights having won the Grand Prize in the 1st Sangyaw Festival of Tacloban City last year. Their runnerup in the competition in Leyte was Lumad Basakanon.


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/800s, f/6.3, 25mm, ISO 400, -1/3EV


Tribu Himag-ulaw of Placer, Masbate

Among the first-time participants in the Sinulog 2009 grand parade was the Tribu Himag-ulaw of Placer Masbate. The mayor who led the contingent said that about P2 million was spent to fund the almost 100-strong contingent.


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/250s, f/5.6, 55mm, ISO 400


Karasikas Performing Arts Guild of Borongan City, Eastern Samar

A former 5th place winner in the 2006 Sinulog, the Tribu Sinirangan Karasikas, came back this year in stunning avian costumes. Their bird headdresses reminded me a lot of Aztec masks.


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/250s, f/5.6, 18mm, ISO 400


other Cebu City contingents

To finish the roundup, here are other dance groups from schools in Cebu City which I was fortunate to catch and photograph.


Tribu Jiboren of Pasil Elementary School, 2nd Place in the Sinulog sa Kabataan sa Dakbayan elimination round
Canon EOS 5D Digital, 1/250s, f/1.8, 50mm, ISO 50, -1/3EV



Tribu Mag-uuma of Zapatera Elementary School
Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/40s, f/15, 55mm, ISO 400



Pardo Night High School
Canon EOS 5D Digital, 1/160s, f/1.8, 50mm, ISO 50, -1/3EV



Canon EOS 5D Digital, 1/80s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 50

the Sinulog 2009 series includes
the Sinulog Saturday procession and fireworks
Sinulog 2009 grand street parade part 1 (winners),
part 2 (the Sinulog-based contingents)
part 3 (the Free Interpretation contingents), and
the Sinulog beauties