chasing sunset in Mtoni, Zanzibar

I didn’t go to Africa for a safari, a vacation or for anything remotely close to leisure. The trip was a business call and the schedule was heavily structured: a night in Dar, 2 nights each in Pemba and Unguja islands and one final stayover in Dar. We always were in a hurry, maximizing time on the beach during the 3 hour low tide period in the morning, squeezing the most number of villages in a single trip and on occasion skipping meals in favor of work.


the blue hour in an isolated beach in Mtoni



the lap pool of Mtoni Marine right after sunset


Before the trip, I had all the intentions to do some photography and even brought a tripod. While I did use my camera in our visits to the seaweed farms, the tripod almost did not see any action. Finally, in our last day in Zanzibar, we got a couple of hours of free time. It was sundown too and fortunately for me, we were staying in Mtoni Marine Centre whose beach faces the west. Sunset and twilight shots were never far away then.


beach huts in Mtoni Marine at dusk



Mtoni Marine is flanked in the south by lush mangroves


Mtoni Marine is an Italian-owned boutique resort, with Omani-inspired architecture. Think of ogees, solid and thick Romanesque walls, recessed alcoves and clean uncluttered walls. Rates were not bad either. Basic accommodation starts at about $65 and at this reasonable rate, we got a canopied queen-sized bed, a rather surprisingly large shower room and toilet, a personal safe, and best of all, a balcony facing the sea.


ready for a romantic rendezvous for two



the open lobby features locally cultivated pine lumber


Although there are no internet connections in the rooms, wi-fi and broadband cable line are available in the lobby. The main restaurant was under renovation this June but the resort made best use of its existing rugby sports bar and its beach front as an alternative dining place. The bar actually is popular in Zanzibar and is frequented by a lot of Europeans and South Africans.


coconut rule: the roof has to give way to an old coconut



a resort attendant picking up flowers for tabletop decoration


As can be seen in the pictures, the resort offers a white sandy beach appointed with the necessary cottages and water sports facilities. A lap pool overlooks the waters. If these were not attractive enough, the resort also caters to families traveling together. Its self-contained 2-storey apartments have a couple of bedrooms and a kitchenette. I would not mind coming back here someday, with family in tow.


the architecture of the Mtoni lodges is classical Omani-Arabic



function and form: canopy nets keep mosquitoes out. Malaria is common in East Africa.


To go: Mtoni Marine Center is some 4 km from Stonetown and is right beside the ruins of the Mtoni Palace.