48 hours in Diego Suarez, Madagascar (Day 2)

continued from Day 1

Montagne d’Ambre

We woke up early at The Nature Lodge, excited about our itinerary that morning, the Amber Mountain, or as they say it there, the Parc Montagne d’Ambre. I did my research and found out that it is the most visited destination in North Madagascar being one of the most biologically diverse places in the country. We knew we would be venturing inside a jungle so we dressed for it, in sneakers ready to trudge on muck, in jeans to fend off mosquitoes or whatever insect that might take a liking for human flesh and with caps on to keep us somewhat dry. Tropical forests are hot, humid and wet.

The road was unpaved, jagged and muddy but our experienced driver (Eric, cel +261 331292765, about $30-50/day in 2005) was adept in maneuvering his old Citroen over mud, boulders and gigantic tree roots. In 30 minutes, by about 8AM, we already found ourselves at a small building fronting the Park. Imagine our chagrin when the park secretary informed us that we could not visit the park without a guide and that all guides were already bookedZ. Apparently we should have made advance arrangements as there are only a few guides. We asked our driver to help us cajole and implore the staff in finding us a guide. For what seemed like an hour we waited – okay, it was just 15 minutes really but we were scared white – until the secretary came back with her brother Angeluc. He volunteered to be our guide. So off we went.

Fantastic luck. Razafimanantsoa Angeluc (family name comes first in Malagasy) had an encyclopedic knowledge of the place, born from someone who grew up in the area. He was loquacious and told us that after high school he went to Tana and worked as a research assistant in a biology lab in a university. I think he studied there too for awhile. He was now working as a Tana-based guide specializing on wildlife tours in any point in Madagascar. He mentioned gigs with international photographers and videographers. Maybe so. His English was fluent and most of all, he knew the scientific names of most plants, animals and insects in the forest reserve. Taking down notes of his commentaries was difficult because he had a lot to say!

The national park was created in 1958 and covers 18,200 hectares of prominent volcanic massif. The billboard at the entrance proclaims that it has 75 different species of birds, 25 species of mammals, and 59 species of reptiles. The latter group includes frogs, geckoes, chameleons and snakes. Of the seven lemur species in the park, the most notable are the crowned lemur and Sanford's brown lemur. I did not have any telephoto lens then so my lemur pictures were miserable.

Personally, I was dying to see the chameleons. Imagine a lizard which could change colors in response to light, heat, and other stimuli! The island is home to 54 or two-thirds of all the world's chameleon species.


Canon EOS 350D, 0.002s, f/5.6, 45mm, ISO 100
a chameleon in the Amber Mountain Park, Diego Suarez (Antsiranana), Madagascar, East Africa


Chameleons range in size from the giant Chamaeleo oustaleti which measures up to 68 cm (27 inches) long to the diminutive Brookesia minima which reaches only 3 cm (1.3 inches). Chameleons are Old World lizards that dwell in trees, except for the stump-tailed chameleon, Brookesia, which lives mainly on the forest floor. We only saw 4 but that's enough for me.


phototip: Be quick. Some creatures don’t hold their pose.
Canon EOS 350D, 0.05s, f/5.6, 52mm, ISO 100
a chameleon in the Amber Mountain Park, Diego Suarez (Antsiranana), Madagascar, East Africa


The park has several water falls and crater lakes and being a true rainforest, it is a botanist’s dream. It boasts of roughly 20km of maintained tracks allowing close contact with the lush wildlife.


phototip: Underexpose a sunrise shot to get silhouettes.
Canon EOS 350D, 0.013s, f/5.6, 27mm, ISO 100
Cascade Antamboka, the Amber Mountain Park, Diego Suarez (Antsiranana), Madagascar, East Africa

On our way out of the forest, there was one final treat. While the car was speeding, Angeluc suddenly asked the driver to stop and backtrack. He saw something on the track – the chameleon below. Now, those are eagle eyes he has. It was only 10cm long!


phototip: Underexpose a sunrise shot to get silhouettes.
Canon EOS 350D, 0.002s, f/5.6, 55mm, ISO 200
a Brookesia chameleon in the Amber Mountain Park, Diego Suarez (Antsiranana), Madagascar, East Africa


City Tour

Of course, what is a trip to Diego Suarez without having a city tour? We had the taxi drop us at Rue Colbert, the main thoroughfare. From the map, we could tell that the city center is small enough to be explored on foot.

Historically, Madagascar was a notorious pirate's lair in the age of colonialism, when merchant ships in the Indian Ocean, the Red Sea and the Persian Gulf were easy prey. Legend says that in the late 1700s, a strange community named Libertalia settled in Diego Suarez, now Antsiranana.


Canon EOS 350D, 0.005s, f/11, 41mm, ISO 100
a mosque the Cathedral, Diego Suarez (Antsiranana), Madagascar, East Africa


The name Diego Suarez harbor was derived from Diego Diaz, who came to Madagascar in 1500 and a sailor, Fernando Suarez who visited in 1506. The story and the legend say that:"Towards the end of the 17th century, a strange community settled in the Bay area and gave birth to the Libertalia Republic. Characters that were closely related to buccaneering: a French pirate named Misson, and a Roman priest, Angelo Caraccioli. They were both inspired by a utopian philosophy based on the freedom of men, religion and races. Libertalia thrived for a few years until the Malagasy, aroused by their chiefs that hardly understood this threat to their authority, attacked Libertalia by surprise and destroyed it".


Canon EOS 350D , 0.008s, f/8, 40mm, ISO 100
a wall mural in Diego Suarez (Antsiranana), Madagascar, East Africa


As a developing nation, Madagascar cannot spend much for infrastructure but surprisingly, Diego Suarez has roads that are well-paved, clean and free from potholes probably because there are not a lot of cars. It helps that the city does not get a lot of heavy truck traffic. To add to its picturesque look, almost all of the taxicabs and cars on the street were 1950-70s cars, either Renault or Citroen, that are still in surprisingly good running condition.


Canon EOS 350D, 0.008s, f/8, 38mm, ISO 100
Rue d' Colbert, Diego Suarez (Antsiranana), Madagascar

Within just a 200 meter radius are two mosques, a Hindu temple and a Christian Cathedral. The latter was closed when we visited it early in the afternoon but it looks Catholic. It is a multicultural society.


Canon EOS 350D, 0.002s, f/5.6, 18mm, ISO 100
a Cathedral in Diego Suarez (Antsiranana), Madagascar, East Africa


Diego Suarez retains the charm of an old French colonial city, having been under French rule from 1896 to 1960. A lot of colonial buildings still stand, replete with ionic columns and balustrades, mostly crumbling and flaking but no less elegant. Locals, expats and tourists alike seem to take lounging and promenading to a habit. Had we stayed in town any longer, we probably would have found ourselves watch time pass by in any of its Arabic tea parlors, French cafes or Italian bakeshops. But we needed to go to the airport and catch a flight.

Looking back, I want to think that little has changed today in Diego. Time has been kind to it for the longest time and maybe it still is.


Canon EOS 350D, 0.002s, f/5.6, 25mm, ISO 100
awning at La Rosticceria where we had lunch, Rue Colbert, Diego Suarez (Antsiranana), Madagascar, East Africa

48 hours in Diego Suarez, Madagascar (Day 1)

I have done more than a fair share of traveling, thanks to my day job. If you asked me, the most exotic country I have visited so far has to be Madagascar. It is that large island east of Africa renowned for a flora and fauna unique from the rest of the world. Think of lemurs, baobabs and chameleons. Madagascar is the fourth largest island in the world but it is pretty much isolated from Africa. Its racial stock is not solely black and is mixed with Indonesian and Polynesian. No wonder too that it has a superstitious culture that could rival Haiti’s voodoo religion.


phototip: Look for patterns that are visually pleasing.
Canon PowerShot S40, 0.067s, f/8, 21.3mm
Ravanala madagascariensis, a palm originally from Madagascar now distributed worldwide by horticulturists, shot in Nusa Dua, Bali, Indonesia


getting there
I am based in the Philippines and back in November 2005, the time of my visit, it was difficult getting to Madagascar. There were no direct flights yet from Asia. I had to buy a Nairobi (Kenya) to Antananarivo ticket which I picked up at Dar es Salaam, Tanzania, my first stop of my Africa trip. Nowadays, it is easier as Air Malagasy, in a code share agreement with Thai Airways, already flies between Bangkok and Tana, thanks I hear to the thriving gem trade between the two countries. There are also connections with Johannesburg, Mauritius and of course Paris as Madagascar was a former French colony. Once you are in the capital city of Antananarivo, you can easily get a plane ticket to any destination in the country.

language
Malagasy is the national language. Contrary to rumors, it has no semblance to Bahasa Indonesia. I would find out later that Malagasy is only specifically related to the Maanyan languange so the Indonesian I know gets me nowhere. French is still commonly spoken but English is not.


phototip: Before checking into your flight, check the direction of the plane against the map. If you could, get the window seat favorable to the area you want.
Camera: Canon EOS 350D Digital, 0.001s, f/9, 55mm, ISO 100
aerial view of Western Madagascar, East Africa


ariary
The official currency is the Malagasy ariary which was introduced in 2005 to replace the Malagasy franc. The euro is also accepted in most hotels and touristy joints but not the US dollar. Foreign exchange is strictly enforced and limited only in banks. There are some bank counters in the airport so err on the side of safety and change more than what you may need. You don’t want to lose time and queue inside a bank if you run out of ariary.

Tana
The capital Antananarivo, Tana for short, is smacked in the high plateau at the center of the island, about a thousand meter in elevation. It is a bit cold there. I was in the capital for only half a day. My business destination was the Northern regional center of Antsiranana, still popularly called Diego Suarez, which to my delight, offers a distilled rawness of unspoilt beauty that I cxpect from Madagascar.

Upon arriving in Diego Suarez, hire a taxicab. Mer D’Emeraude, or in English, the Emerald Bay, beckons and it is worthwhile first port of call. It is about 20km from the city. The roads may be rough at times but the bay vistas are spectacular.

baobab
Right at the roadside, you will be treated by baobabs. These are strange-looking trees that look upturned by a divine whim of some sort. Its branches look more like roots. Bizarre but beautiful. Looking rather dead, these trees are generally leafless most of the time. Baobabs make me think of trees in illustrated storybooks like The Little Prince. But that is just me. Of the 8 species of baobabs (genus Adansonia), six are found ONLY in Madagascar, with one species endemic to Africa (Adansonia digitata) and one to Australia (Adansonia gibbosa ex. Adansonia gregori). Diego Suarez is quite known to have clusters of these deciduous trees appropriately named “baobab forests”. So when you see any, ask your driver to pull over. The pictures will be worth the stop.


phototip: Black and white works in removing distracting elements and isolating dramatic visuals.
Canon EOS 350D Digital, 0.005s, f/10, 55mm, ISO 100
the Adansonia perrieri or Perrier's Baobab in the French Mountain, Antsiranana (Diego Suarez), Madagascar, East Africa


Emerald Bay
The Bay of Antsiranana is one of largest and most breathtakingly beautiful lagoons in the world. Shaped like a four-petalled flower with a narrow mouth at its eastern tip, it opens into the Indian Ocean. One of the component bays is the Emerald Sea which is famous for its colors of green and blue, thanks to the fine white sand and relatively shallow coast. This island hill called the Sugar Loaf is its fabulous landmark which one can easily photograph by the roadside when approaching the Emerald Sea.

Canon EOS 350D, 0.003s, f/10, 55mm, ISO 100
the Sugar Loaf island taken from a hill by the road leading to Ramena Beach, Diego Suarez, Madagascar


Ramena Beach
There should be several beaches in Emerald Bay, all pristine, wide and most of all EMPTY! Recommended to us was Ramena Beach.

Emerald Bay is just one of 3 enclosed bays in Diego Suarez. It is round shaped, about 20 km in perimeter, shallow in the first few meters- hence the “emerald” appellation and just moderately deep at the center to change the color to turquoise and not blue black. The water all around you are in dazzling hues of greens and blues. No overdelopment. No spas. Just some bed and breakfast cottages and with a few expatriate-owned huts. There were several choices of beach resorts like Cinq Trop Pres and La Casa but a friend picked Hotel Palm Beach for us. It is small, spartan and doubles as a backpacker lodge- perfect place to dump our bags and be assured of a hearty lunch.


Canon EOS 350D, 0.005s, f/10, 39mm, ISO 100
at the Ramena beach at Mer D’Emeraude, Diego Suarez (Antsiranana), Northeast Madagascar, East Africa


I asked around and found out that public buses are scarce except during Sunday when trips become regular. The endless stretch of white sand is a dream. The scientist in me automatically calculated the fineness of the sand in the beach. Goodness, it must have been like 40 to 60 mesh. And it is white. In the morning that we were there, I chose to skip taking a dip and just practiced with my Rebel camera which was new at that time. Lighting was perfect and the people could not be any more generous with their smiles.


phototip: Smile and be friendly. Kids reciprocate always.
Canon EOS 350D, 0.005s, f/10, 52mm, ISO 100
at the Ramena beach at Mer D’Emeraude, Diego Suarez (Antsiranana), Northeast Madagascar, East Africa


religion
About 45% of the Malagasy are Christians, evenly split into 50 Roman Catholics and Protestants. They constitute the majority of the people living in the capital, in the central highlands of Antananarivo. Asian features are most predominant there too and majority look like Indonesians. However, along the coastal, people are clearly of African origin and are dark-skinned with a mix of Arabic, Pakistani and Comorian blood. They are mostly Muslims. Regardless of faith, majority of them still follow the traditional beliefs of the cult of the dead. Life is regularly guided by various fady taboos.

Diego Suarez is largely Muslim and local mosques provide plenty of local color photo ops. There’s one quantly small mosque right by the beach of Ramena. Don’t miss it.


phototip: Simplify the composition to isolate the bright colors amidst plain white walls.
Canon EOS 350D, 0.013s, f/10, 40mm, ISO 100
the Mosque Du Nord, Ramena Beach, Diego Suarez (Antsiranana), Madagascar


Joffreville
In the afternoon, headoff for the mountains. There is a popular national park 30 kilometers south of Diego Suarez- the Montagne d’Ambre or Amber Mountain which has a peak elevation of about 1400 meters. Climate there is cool, quite different from the heat in the parched terrain around the bay. During the French occupation, the town of Joffre was the holiday place of North Madagascar. when the French left, most of the hotels already closed shop. Recently, Joffreville is slowly rebuilding itself as a premier eco-destination.

Joffreville is small. Neglect has taken a toll on the buildings that dot around the town center. The village store appropriately named The Village Store has scant amenities and merchandise. Whatever produce grown and harvested in the village are otherwise displayed in unattended makeshift street stands. There must only be a few hundred people in the village as we did not see a lot of houses along the road. We also only met a few buses plying the route and most places must be traversed mostly by foot.


Canon EOS 350D, 0.006s , f/8, 18mm, ISO 100
town center of Joffreville, Diego Suarez (Antsiranana), Madagascar


It was nearing sundown but we still decided to locate the Monastere St Jean-Baptiste. We courteously befriended an old Belgian nun who unfortunately does not speak much English. As I remembered it, the monastery had about 5 nuns at that time, mostly of European descent, and one old priest. The sisters also happen to be Benedictine and I remembered this as I went to school run by OSB nuns (Order of St. Benedict). She mentioned too that the monastery is a haven for all people, even to local refugees during civil and military turmoil.

The grounds are well kept and bear a severe simplicity. The gardens do offer a jaw-dropping promontory that gives an almost 270 degree arc of the Emerald Bay, the Mozambique Channel in the west and the Indian Ocean at the east.

phototip: Late afternoon sun has directional light that results to long shadows.
Canon EOS 350D, 0.005s , f/8, 18mm, ISO 100
the St Jean Baptiste Monastery, Joffreville, Diego Suarez (Antsiranana), Madagascar


We stayed in a seemingly new place called The Nature Lodge (www.naturelodge-ambre.com, email naturelodge@wanadoo.mg, tel (+261)320712306, fax (+261 20) 2262213, BP795 Diego Suarez). It has several duplex bungalows scattered around wide flower and vegetable gardens. Dinner and breakfast must be reserved ahead and there was only menu for everybody. Food was fresh, delectable and quite French. As Joffreville is about a thousand meters above sea level, air conditioning is not really required. There was no electricity except when the generator ran at 6PM to 10PM and 6:30AM to 9AM. Staying in the lodge requires you to commune with nature.


Canon EOS 350D, 0.2s, f/4.5, 28mm, ISO 100
a filigree lamp in our room at the Nature Lodge, Joffreville, Diego Suarez (Antsarinana), NE Madagascar

Next on Day 2: Amber Mountain and the city of Diego Suarez

48 hours in Bongao, Tawi-Tawi (Day 2)

continued from Day 1

Simandagat
What’s a visit to Bongao without my prerequisite sunrise scenes? Think of the unique places that could not be found elsewhere like Muslim mosques or traditional Samal houses on stilts.As always, I checked out the map to scout for vantage points so I knew that staying at Beachside Inn which faces southeast the Simandagat beach would be convenient.


phototip: Underexpose a sunrise shot to get silhouettes.
Camera: Canon EOS 350D, 0.4s, f/10, 55mm, ISO 100
at Simandagat, Bongao, Tawi-Tawi, the Philippines


Everyday scenes offer a lot too. You may choose to photograph fishermen pulling out into the sea, subsistent fisherfolks gathering sea urchins or even school children walking to school. I even found one interesting “welcome” dome-shaped archway of a barangay.

phototip: Be patient. For the shot above, I waited for most of the clouds to clear as I wanted only just a few wisps. Negative space can be dramatic especially if the sky was this blue.
Canon EOS 350D Digital, 0.001s, f/5.6, 55mm, ISO100, +1/3 EV
Bongao, Tawi-Tawi, the Philippines


Simunul Island
I strongly suggest getting to Simunul island, an island south of Bongao considered to be the birthplace of Islam in the Philippines. Catch a public boat or charter one if you could afford it. Simunul is less than an hour away.


phototip: Watch out for fleeting scenes. Always be ready for unrehearsed moments. This girl was playing with her home-made toy airplane solo, lost in her own world, while our boat slowly tried to dock.
Canon EOS 350D, 0.001s, f/5.6, 255mm, ISO 100
Tubig Indangan, Simunul Island, Tawi-Tawi, the Philippines


Largely laidback and quiet, Simunul is where the Arab missionary Karimul Sheikh Makhdum built the first mosque in the Philippines in 1380. For obvious reasons, this mosque is revered by Philippine Muslims and every Friday is a designated congregation day for imams and religious folks to come and pray. Already a national monument, visitors are welcome to come inside whether you are Muslim or not. People are accommodating and would gladly show you around. This mosque is sparse but it still proudly houses four 3-feet diameter ipil pillars of the original structure.


Camera: Canon EOS 350D, 0.001s, f/6.3, 34mm, ISO 100
mosque of Makhdum, Tubig Indangan, Simunul Island, Tawi-Tawi, the Philippines


Within the vicinity of the mosque is one of two reputed graveyards of the Sheikh Makhdum. It seems its actual site is in dispute as when I visited Sibutu Island in Sitangkai, there’s another monument there claiming that the Sheikh was buried in the area. Also check out several centuries-old sunduk gravemarkers that are often featured in magazines and books.


Camera: Canon EOS 350D, 0.008s, f/6.3, 21mm, ISO 100
a centuries-old sunduk across the mosque of Makhdum, Tubig Indangan, Simunul Island, Tawi-Tawi, the Philippines


Tango Island
The visit to Simunul will only take you half a day. The afternoon should be spent in any of the sandy beaches and reef that Tawi-Tawi is blessed. My pick of heaven on earth is the islet of Tango with its exceptionally white sand, with nary a cover except for some greens of mangrove and coconut. Surrounded by generous sandbars and emerald waters, it is paradisical. I only saw this island from the plane but I wish I could come over and immerse in its shores.

Canon EOS 350D, 0.002s, f/6.3, 55mm, ISO 100
Tango Island, Bongao, Tawi-Tawi, Philippines


banig
One should not leave Tawi-Tawi without bringing home a banig or handwoven mat from the screwpine palm leaves (called pandan or romblon). The Philippines claims to produce the handsomest mat in Asia and arguably the most colorful and intricate fine-grained mats are handwoven by the Samal tribe of Tawi-Tawi. Preparation takes one week, with at least 2 cycles of boiling, stick-beating, drawing into strips, sun-bleaching and finally dying. Weaving consumes another two to five weeks. The bordered double-layer mats are the most expensive at about $20 each and is valued to 2-3x as much when brought to the big cities of Cebu or Manila. There is a cooperative of weavers which has a stall near the Notre Dame University in Bongao. Or check out the inventory at the Bongao Department of Tourism which also sells woven pandan salakot hats.


Canon PowerShot S40, 0.001s, f/2.8, 7.1mm
Tango Island, Bongao, Tawi-Tawi, Philippines


Saying goodbye to a place after 2 wonderful days can only be sweet if tempered with a promise to return back someday. I never am sure when but I bet there are more nooks to discover in faraway Bongao.


Canon EOS 350D, 0.002s, f/6.3, 25mm, ISO 100
Bongao, Tawi-Tawi, Philippines



Canon EOS 350D, 1/1000s, f/4, 21mm, ISO 100, -1/3EV
an uninhabited island of Tawi-Tawi, the Sulu Archipelago, Autonomous Region of Muslim Mindanao, the Philippines

48 hours in Bongao, Tawi-Tawi (Day 1)

My memories of my first visit in Bongao are vague. I remember waking up to the early dawn Muslim prayers from the numerous mosques around the nondescript inn where I spent the night over. That’s about it. Nada. This was in 1991 and memory can be exceedingly selective at times. I was on my way back from a two week research study in Sitangkai Island, and I was dying for the comfort of home. When I received an invite back to Bongao after more than 15 years, I immediately jumped on the opportunity.

getting there
Let me introduce Bongao first. It is the capital of the province of Tawi-Tawi which is the most south you can get in the Philippines. Any further down and you are in Sabah, Malaysia already. For most Filipinos, the southernmost city one has visited probably is Zamboanga. Well, Zamboanga is only the takeoff point for Bongao which is an hour away by plane (Seair) or about 26 hours by ferry via Jolo.

accommodations
Bongao lies southwest of the main island of Tawi-Tawi. Today, I hear that there are about 3 reputable hostels in Bongao. I have tried Rachel’s Inn in 2005. This is where you would want to be if you need to be in the urban part of the town as it is only walking distance to market, the major schools, eateries and well, the internet café if you want to stay connected. An alternative I would suggest is the Beachside Inn where I stayed in 2006 as it faces the popular Simandagat beach.

security
Filipinos are basically afraid of going down to Muslim Mindanao. Zamboanga scares a lot of Filipinos which is a sad exaggerated reaction from the negative publicity the South is getting. I probably would skip hot spots like Basilan and Jolo but Tawi-Tawi is quite secure. There are always rumors of kidnapping for ransom in most places in the South and Tawi-Tawi has not been spared. If it makes you feel better, you can always visit the army detachment there and request for a military escort. Yes, this can be done.

Day 1
On your first day in Bongao, what better to orient yourself around than take a tour around town. I recommend hiring a tricycle for the day. I doubt if there are cars for hire there anyway.

Canon PowerShot S40, 0.003s, f/2.8, 7.1mm
Bongao, Tawi-Tawi, the Philippines


the old Chinese pier
Start with the Chinese pier. Originally a floating market where goods are peddled on boats, this is the biggest market in Tawi-Tawi which now extends around the vicinity of the U-shaped bay. It owes its name to its pre-Hispanic pre-eminence as a commercial entrepot where the Chinese, Arabs and Filipinos converged and bartered goods. All that are available in Tawi-Tawi go through here so expect an assault of sight, sound, smell and taste.


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 0.033s, f/5.6, 55mm, ISO 100
the old Chinese pier, Bongao, Tawi-Tawi, the Philippines


the Bongao “Capitol”
Atop a hill overlooking the bay is the Bongao municipal hall. Having the tricycle climb the exceedingly steep winding road is a thrill by itself. White and stately, the provincial capitol is a popular destination for the unprecedented view of the poblacion (main town), the airport at Sanga-Sanga and the neighboring islands. Peculiarly, it has a large musholla or Muslim prayer room. It also boasts of white-washed Mughal-inspired minarets at the corners, which strongly remind you that the province after all is part of the Autonomous Region of Muslim Mindanao.

phototip: Use a low angle to utilize the sky as a background.
Canon EOS 350D Digital, 0.001s, f/5.6, 37mm, ISO 400
at the Provincial Capitol of Bongao, Tawi-Tawi, the Philippines


the Muslim gravemarkers
Call me morbid but I egg you to visit any of the old Muslim cemetery in Bongao. Look for the old sunduk grave markers. Tawi-Tawi is a center of the indigenous carving art of ukkil wherein only chisels, hammers and other basic tools are used in executing ornate patterns on stone, coral or wood. Said to be used even before Islamic times and continued in practice even today, the grave markers indicate the sex of the deceased: flat floral scrolls or combs for women and knobbed pillars, often hexagonal, for men. Dating the coral grave markers in historical tombs is difficult unless dates are inscribed. While they have survived the ravages of time and weather, they have not been spared by man’s greed and enterprise. Some of the best examples of these works of art are now found only in archival photographs and museums.

Canon PowerShot S40, 0.025s, f/2.8, 7.1mm
a Muslim cemetery in Bongao, the capital of Tawi-Tawi province, the Philippines


food
Tawi-Tawi, with its more than 100 islands, is inarguably a haven for seafood from fresh fish to prawns to crabs. There are no fancy restaurants so expect to dine in small eateries where food is simply grilled, steamed or fried. There is a sizeable Christian population in Bongao (40%?) but pork consumption is still discreetly done. However, the not-so-secret delicacy of Bongao is cured meat from wild boars which roam freely in the hinterlands. You have to order a day ahead though to partake of the gourmet tapas. Other treats I indulged in were the apam daub daya or apam (I miss this the most!), the miniature tambis or roseapple which I’ve never seen that small, the ukoy-ukoy or vegetable cakes. Ifever I get back to Bongao, I plan on trying the bianban or cassava cake wrapped in ornate coconut leaves, the panggi which is the basic ground cassava staple of the native Sama and Badjaos and any of the other delicacies displayed in the stores by the Chinese pier.

Bud Bongao
Go physical and climb the Bongao Peak, a place sacred to the Muslims. It is Tawi-Tawi’s unmistakeable landmark visible from afar and is kind of reminiscent of the flat-topped Table Mountain of Capetown which I climbed in 2001. Bongao Peak is about 422 meters above sea level and is a relatively easy 2-hour climb were it not for the muddy trail. At the summit are two Muslim graves popular among the locals which unfortunately we only came to know after we got down. Talk about being close yet so far.

Bongao Peak is also a sanctuary of long-tailed macaques. Which brings me to a story.

Canon Canon EOS 350D Digital, 0.125s, f/22, 18mm, ISO 100
Bud Bongao or the Bongao Peak, Bongao, Tawi-Tawi, the Philippines


In 2006, my girlfriend (now wife) and I climbed the peak and midway, we were accosted by a gang of monkeys. The trail was narrow and there was no way to pass through them. As appeasement, I opened my messenger bag to get some bananas. I moved slowly and deliberately. I was careful not show off that I brought a bundle as I wanted to leave some bananas for the other monkeys along the way. All of a sudden, the biggest monkey, probably the alpha male, jumped on me and latched on the bag. With the entire weight of the bag and the monkey bearing down on on my shoulder, I could only freeze. The monkey could not zip open my bag to steal the entire bagful of bananas. While it was not willing to loosen its steely grip, I too was not about to give up my bag either as it contained my telephoto lens, tripod and some other accessories. The standoff seemed like eternity. Finally I mustered the courage to zip open the bag and promptly, the monkey grabbed the entire stash of bananas and scampered away. Sweating profusely and trembling from the adrenalin rush, we didn’t know what to do. We were alone. The monkeys may have left us but we were sure that there would be more monkeys along the way. Between going back or proceeding without any more banana “gifts”, we decided to continue. Maybe the next batch of monkeys were already tame or were forewarned that we were “generous”, the rest of monkeys we met were no longer aggressive. They did hover and trail us eerily from a distance as if we were pied pipers but they allowed us in. Even the descent was without any drama so it was strange how monkeys can become confrontational then become docile the next.



travel tip: If you would climb Bongao peak, do not forget the bananas!
Canon EOS 350D, 0.013s, f/4.5, 75mm, ISO 800
a long-tail macaque guarding the Bongao Peak, Bongao, Tawi-Tawi, Philippines


seaside dining
Just at the foot of Bongao Peaks are at least two beach resorts that offer local foodfare. I remember that the beach was already facing west so I took the opportunity to shoot some sunset photos. The colors of the setting sun, the shape-shifting forms of the clouds and the images of fishermen rushing home are always rewarding.

Canon EOS 350D Digital, 0.002s, f/5.6, 300mm, ISO 100, +1/3EV
Bongao, Tawi-Tawi, the Philippines

Next: Day 2

48 Hours in Zanzibar

Before my visit, Zanzibar exists only as an adventure destination. As the gateway of East Africa, Zanzibar island is historically and strategically important, renowned as the other capital of the Sultanate of Oman. Every corner in its commercial center, Stonetown, a renowned UNESCO World Heritage, is a discovery by itself, from old Omani palaces, to historical slave monuments, Persian baths and quaint mosques and churches. I’m not sure if I have ever been in Zanzibar for more than 2 days but having visited the island four times in the recent past, I will try to distill here what one should not miss.

Day One

the Slavery memorials
Do you know that Zanzibar was the major port of slaves in East Africa? Hundreds of thousands of men and women were auctioned off in the small island and sold as slaves all throughout its history, most recently and notably in the 19th century. If only to be reminded of the oppression and inhumanity of slavery, do not miss visiting the somber vestiges of the slave trade in a small area around the Anglican Church which was built when slavery was outlawed in the island. The memorials are grim and gritty. The auction site by the courtyard is nondescript. The adjacent slave dungeons turned museum are dusty and clautrophobic. The statuary memorial of slaves is graphic and without pomp. Even the church altar is dark and desolate, befitting of a former site of the whipping post. Slavery, after all, is not meant to be glorified and glazed.

travel tip: Do this in early morning or late afternoon. Most of these places get too hot in noontime. Estimated time of 1-1.5 hours


Canon EOS 350D, 0.006s, f/7.1, 30mm, ISO 100, cropped
”Memory for the slaves” by Clara Sornas, at the former auction square in front of the Anglican Church, Zanzibar


the spice trail
Zanzibar, is the SPICE ISLAND of Africa. Being on the equator, it enjoys a tropical rainy climate. Several reputable travel agencies in Zanzibar flaunt the island’s imminent status by offering organized spice tours in plantations. As every conceivable spice is crammed in one easily navigable area, you can conveniently see in their natural habitat patches of cinnamon, cumin, pepper, cardamon, and turmeric, among others. With matching commentaries on the uses and history of the spices, the tour also features visit to a small makeshift market of native delicacies, fruits and souvenir packs of spices (all for sale of course). And for a small gratuity, you get to leave with speedily woven coconut leaf items like a necklace wallet, a basket or a hat.

travel tip: If you are already familiar with tropical fruits and spices, you may skip this. I was there just for the photo ops. Estimated time of 2-1.5 hours



Canon EOS 350D, 0.008s, f/5, 40mm, ISO 200
starfruit for sale at a farm in Kzembani-Kdechi, Zanzibar, Tanzania, East Africa

the sandy beaches
Of course, do not resist the invite of the wide empty sand beaches of Zanzibar. Fortunately for me, my work requires plenty of duty calls to the beach. Having visited quite a fair share, I recommend Paje in the Southeast or Mchangani in the Northeast. For lunch, there are numerous choices of hotels and restaurants to enjoy both fresh seafood and the surf.

Zanzibar does not have lots of paved roads outside of the main highways so the peripheral villages along the coast basically use the white expanse of the beach as the convenient highway. The setup is perfect setting then for a stakeout of street photography. Think of hijab-wearing school children going home, wildly colored batik-printed cotton clothes being dried on lines, mothers bathing their babies and my favorite, seaweed being harvested.

travel tip: Check the tide table. Tide differences in East Africa are about 8 meters (compare that to 1 meter in the Philippines!) so be wary of tidal surges. There are a lot more action (fishing, beachcombing, seaweed harvesting) during low tide. Estimated down time is 3 hour, more if you do water sports.


Canon EOS 350D, 0.01sec, f/22, 18mm, ISO 100
pedestrian traffic at Paje Beach, Southeast Zanzibar, Tanzania, Africa


Let me not romanticize Zanzibar. Poverty is pervasive and the life expectancy is short, a shocking 45-46 years. Jobs are scarce, especially for women. Take the woman below, for example. What she was digging out of the sand were coconut husks that she buried 4 to 6 months ago, marked only those old tires. The coconut coir fibers apparently already are “ripe” for harvesting. Soft and pliant, the fibers are wound as rope or sold as mattress fill. A few dollars can go a long way in Zanzibar.


Canon EOS 350D, 0.01s, f/22, 18mm, ISO 100
Paje beach, Southeast Zanzibar, Tanzania, East Africa

the sunset over the Zanzibar Channel
Just before sundown, head back to Stonetown and settle in a cozy spot overlooking the Zanzibar Channel. Probably the cheapest food you will find on the island is at the night market of the Forodhani Gardens. Local cuisine from seafood to pizzas to vegetarian Hindu dishes are available for the picking. Down them with juice drinks of fresh sugar cane, coconut or even hibiscus (red and sweet!). Another option will be Mercury’s Bar which literally juts over the sea. Watch out for the dhows going home for the day or leaving the docks with tourists out for a dinner cruise.


Canon EOS 350D, 0.02s, f/16, 52mm, ISO 100
a dhow sunset at the Zanzibar Channel , Zanzibar, Tanzania, East Africa


Day Two

Stonetown
On day 2, get a map of Stonetown and explore the unique UNESCO World Heritage city. It can really be explored by walking although you may need transport to zip from one end to the other. Zanzibar is generally safe, but as in any city, be careful and do not be an easy target of petty crime. Don’t mind getting lost in the winding narrow alleys- people are friendly. Besides, the next corner always promises another surprise. Hunt for old mosques, quaint coffee houses, bustling market squares, curious old courtyards, colorful art and antique galleries and of course, the fort-like cluster of stone houses. Start southwest and head north to pass by the Kelele Square, the Africa House, St. Joseph’s Cathedral, the Arab Fort, the House of Wonders and the Forodhani Gardens. Further up the in the northeast are the Old Dispensary and the Mnara mosque (in Malindi) famous for its unique conical minarets.

the doors! the doors!
All throughout the walk, you will be greeted by the everpresent indelible symbol of Stonetown: the Zanzibar doors. Fused from the influences of the Arabic, the Indian and the native, these doors are deeply carved, expertly joined and smacked with studs and bosses of iron or brass. My favorite past-time is photographing these antique wooden doors, if only to commit to documentary evidence that once, they have existed. Restoration funds, like in any third world country, are wanting in Zanzibar and many a door lie wasted by time. If you can find a copy, grab the book, Doors of Zanzibar. Photographed by Uwe Rawu and written by Mwalim Mwalim, the book lays out a map of some 200 heritage portals in Stonetown.

travel tip: The town is safe so you can do without a travel guide if you choose. You may need local transport though like a motorcycle or a car to shorten your tour to 3-4 hours.


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 0.25s, f/4, 18mm, ISO 100
the Simhogo Door, Baghani Street, Zanzibar Island, Tanzania, East Africa

Do not miss the grand St. Joseph Cathedral. One time I even heard a 6:30AM mass in this century old church in Swahili! I could not understand a word but the atmosphere was welcoming. The church interiors scream like a movie set to me: pillars of dark-veined marble, ionic columns in flashy pink, flaking murals on the ceiling, colorful European tiles and rare gothic pews in iron and wood. Gladly, Muslim Tanzania is admirably religiously tolerant.

travel tip: Befriend a nun or a caretaker in the St. Joseph Church. If you’re lucky, you may get ushered into the fabulous church choir loft to take in a more breathtaking view.


Canon EOS 350D, 0.6s, f/4.5, 30mm, ISO 100
St Joseph's Cathedral, Stonetown, Zanzibar, Tanzania


the palatial ruins of the Old Sultanate
Remnants of the Old Sultanate are everywhere. In the 1800s, the Omani Sultan, attracted by the booming enterprises of cloves, ivory and slaves, transferred the capital of the Sultanate to rich Stonetown. Several kilometers from Stonetown sit the ruins of what once was the Marhubi Palace. Grandeur lost can still be grandeur imagined. Built specifically for the sultan's harem, it used to be a glorious site of domed pavilions, manicured garden, fruit groves, fountains, shower rooms (which are domed roofs with holes for rainwater to “shower” down) and Persian baths. Water then was fed by an extensive aqueduct. Burnt down in 1890, it still is romance in stone.


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 0.033s, f/22, 28mm, ISO 100, uncropped
the palace of Marhubi, Unguja Island, Zanzibar, Tanzania, East Africa


If I remembered right, near this palace is a dhow workshop. Up to now, dhow-making is a sustainable industry in Zanzibar where a sizeable commercial fishing vessel of teak construction may cost around $10,000. Watching how these boats made the traditional way is a treat.

To continue the tour of the Old Sultanate ruins, venture further to the Persian baths of Kidichi. Originally, these baths were open to both men and women only that they had separate hours of admittance – women in the mornings and men in the afternoons. It was (and still is) customary for married Muslim men and women to rid themselves of all body hair so shaving vestibules were provided within the bathhouse.

travel tip: Estimated travel and tour time is 2 hours



Canon PowerShot S40, 0.001s, f/3.5, 10.3 mm
Persian Baths of Kidichi


the House of Wonders
The heritage trail will not be complete without the National Museum or the Beit al-Sahel (“The Palace by the Sea”), popularly referred to as the House of Wonders. Built in 1883, it was the town palace of the Sultan of Oman. The House of Wonders is a truly remarkable building which is now more than 100 years old. It is one of the largest edifices in the island and boasts of the first to have electric light and elevator.

Jozani Forest
Escape to nature. The Jozani Forest Nature Reserve is a popular trail which showcases local birds, the rare duiker antelope and the red Colobus and Syke’s monkeys. This is a separate tour itinerary which I purposedly missed out as I already passed by the forest on the way to Paje beach. There are also lots of baobabs around this area. Baobabs are like uprooted trees which seem to have the roots for their canopy.

authentic Zanzibari food and music
To end the memorable journey, splurge at the ocean-view Baharia restaurant of Serena Inn. Overlooking the Zanzibar Channel, it offers authentic African dishes, as well as international fare, under the ambiance of traditional African and Arabic architecture, complete with fantastically colored skylights and intricately pierced-and-cut tracery windows. The restaurant offers nightly authentic performances of a Taarab orchestra which is an amalgam of African, Arabic and Indian music favored by Sultan of Oman. If all else fails, music will transport you to an age that has almost been forgotten.


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 30s, f/8, 22mm, ISO 100
Taarab orchesta playing drums, the nay (flute) and the kanun, (zither) at the Serena Inn ocean , Zanzibar Island, Tanzania, East Africa


For arrangements, I highly recommend Fisherman Tours and Travels. The owner, Mr. Arif Mazrui, is a good friend.
Fisherman Tours & Travel Ltd
P. O. Box 3537
Zanzibar, TANZANIA.
Fax.: +255-24-2238790
Tel.: +255-24-2238791/2
Mobile phone: +255-747-440044/441144/412677
E-mail: reservations@fishermantours.com
http://www.fishermantours.com