Bali Arts Festival 2008- part 6

I find it hard to time my trips to Indonesia because of the demands of my job. Fortunately, I need to visit Bali quite often, at least 4 times a year. This frequency gives me plenty of opportunity to catch the Bali Arts Festival which is held every year for a span of 4 weeks, usually around July.

Even way back in the 90s, I was a fan. I would sneak out at night to catch the festival’s free cultural shows, view art exhibits and check out the handicrafts products in the trade fair (always on bargain).

My most memorable performance to date was the wayang kulit a popular form of shadow theatre featuring flat cut-out leather (=kulit) puppets mounted on sticks. Played for both art and entertainment, the wayang shows are often enactments of religious Hindu mythology blended with historical facts. The Balinese to this date patronize this old theatrical form even if they are played all night long in villages. I only saw an abbreviated version but I was totally enraptured. It was as pure, if not as primitive as I imagined it to be. A blanket of white was stretched as a white screen and coconut-husk lamp was used as the illuminating fire. Over gamelan accompaniment, the dalang or puppeteer chanted the morality tale in Balinese. I did not understand most of the story but I was entranced nonetheless.

Unfortunately, I don’t have a good photograph of the performance as this was way back in 2002, pre-flickr and before I knew anything about camera settings. The photo below is in fact only 26KB as it was taken from the most rudimentary of p&s digicams available during that time.


a wayang kulit performance at the Bali Arts Festival 2002, Denpasar, Bali, Indonesia
Olympus C900Z,D400Z, 5.6mm, ISO 100


Checking my archive of photographs, I also remembered that the following year, I was able to catch another performance. This time it was a free interpretation dance held at the ampitheatre of the Bali Arts Center in Denpasar, the regular site of the festival. The Festival does not just present classical but also new dance forms. Not surprisingly, the performances were well attended. There were a few tourists but the crowd were mostly Balinese, young and old. That is what is heartening with the Balinese as a people – they appreciate and embrace art. Local patronage is never wanting.


tari kreasi lepas performance at the Bali Arts Festival 2003, Denpasar, Bali, Indonesia
Canon PowerShot S40, 1/60s, f/4.9, 21.3mm


In the course of the month-long festival, performances from provincial cultural troupes outside of Bali would also be highlighted. They obviously keep the festival fresh with new ideas. Lucky for me too as normally, I would not be able to visit these farflung provinces but in Bali, I was able to watch authentic performances. In 2005, for instance, I enjoyed thoroughly a presentation from Flores island. I was amazed at the bulky costumes and large drums that the group transported all the way to Bali.


a dance performance by Flores dancers in the 2005 Bali Arts Festival, Denpasar, Bali, Indonesia
Canon PowerShot S40, 1/15s, f/4.5, 17.5mm


This being the main cultural exposition event of Indonesia, the Festival also attracts the guest performances from other countries. This year, the international representation came from the US, Japan, Taiwan and Korea. Too bad, I was not able to catch any as last month, I left shortly after the opening day of the Festival.

But again, there will be some other chances in the future. I certainly hope to see more in the years ahead.

*******
Here are more photographs from this year’s Bali Arts Festival opening day meped.


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/13s, f/20, 31mm, ISO 200



Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/10s, f/22, 55mm, ISO 200



Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/15s, f/14, 21mm, ISO 200



Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/2500s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 400, -1/3EV



Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/1000s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 400, +1/3EV



Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/1000s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 400



Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/800s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 200, +1/3EV

Bali Arts Festival 2008- part 5

black and white

I did the calculations. I have 21 black and white pictures to date in my flickr account. That represents only 1.3% of my 1,655 photos (public and private).

So I prefer colors. The wilder, the better. The more vivid, the more attractive. There are occasions – and they come few and far between – when I see photos in b&w light and I would then convert the colored originals into b&w.

Such sentiment came to me with these portraits at the Bali Arts Festival Opening Parade. I can volunteer three reasons on the b&w decision.

1. First is to eliminate the distraction of color. B&W allows the eyes to focus on the subject and the prevailing mood of the composition. All the subjects are male and I felt that masculinity is served in strong contrasts and almost inscrutable shadows.


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/100s, f/5.0, 230mm, ISO 100, -1/3EV


2. Second is to recreate timelessness. Time was when b&w was the norm so monochromes evoke nostalgia like no other.


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/500s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 400, +1/3EV


3. Third is a reason that is innately Balinese. In the island’s Hindu culture, the combination of black and white, as evident in the ubiquitous poleng black and white checked cloths which are draped all over statues, pavilions and even trees, represents cosmic duality. Light and darkness could not be more universal and specific at the same time.


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/250s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 100, -2/3EV

Bali Arts Festival 2008- part 4

It is never easy to get close to strangers as it is instinctive for everyone to preserve some measure of personal space. However, nothing is more public than a festival parade where the participants aim to entertain. In a seemingly endless stream of dancers of various colors, shape and form, there will always be those who would stand out. Getting noticed by photographers then becomes a compliment.

Here are some of my favorite portrait shots in the opening parade, marked not only by the colors, a given as this is Bali, but also by the insights into the mind of the subject in particular and to their culture in general.

One of the more fascinating candid portraits I got was this lady. That is not her hand but of a friend who was perhaps fixing a stray eyelash. The traditional eye makeup of Balinese ladies is not wanting of color. Where there is space, they will paint. Balinese dance is characterized by rapid eye movement, where the eyes are bulged out and darted side to side. Super colorful eyelids therefore add impact and Balinese dancers feel bare without the full cover of paint.


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/500s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 400


There was contingents resembling jungle men and boys. A “green” group of boys came wrapped in verdant vines and coconut leaves. One contingent of kids and men came in a full shawl of dry banana leaves creating a sea of brown movement as they glide along the road. I remember asking this guy where they are from and he said Tabanan.


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/30s, f/10, 39mm, ISO 200, +2/3EV


The appeal of the Festival is multigenerational. One group of warriors brandishing spears came with men of all ages, from teenagers to seniors. Their face paint of white matched well with their their garb of sacred cloth of black and white checks. Of course, there is the ubiquitous flower behind their ears. Balinese don’t find this effeminate. I’ve seen several adult men pick a flower and then tuck them behind an ear as if it is the most natural thing for them to do. It is.


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/500s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 200, +1/3EV


Another favorite subject of mine is this man. He belongs to a troupe dressed up as the monkey army. In the beloved Hindu epic of Ramayana, the kidnapped heroine Sita was rescued by the monkey army led by its general Hanuman. The monkey is therefore venerated in Bali, as evidenced by several monkey temples and sanctuaries all over the island and the numerous statuaries dedicated to Hanuman.


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/1000s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 400, +1/3EV

Bali Arts Festival 2008- part 3

The opening parade of the 2008 Bali Arts Festival started only at about 4PM and since we arrived early, at 1:45PM, I had the luxury of time to check out the delegations as they prepared and queued along the parade route.

One of the contingents which stirred up rabid excitement from photographers when they emerged was the group of ladies with huge headdresses of yellow flowers. Unfortunately, the dance troupes did not bear any identifying signages of what regency or district they represented so I would affectionately refer them as “flowerheads”.


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/800s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 400

To describe their headdresses as fabulous is accurate. Imagine peacock-shaped crowns studded with yellow flowers and traditional gold ornaments. Measuring at least three feet wide and two feet high, these headgears must be heavy. Up front, they were nothing short of intricate, consisting of concentric rows of champaca buds (cempaka), yellow plumeria or frangipani (kamboja) fashioned into squares and capped by a cascade of gold foil flowers.


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/60s, f/5.6, 240mm, ISO 100, +1/3 EV


The backside was just as stunning. Lush petals of yellow flowers profusely sprayed over the half-circular arc of the headdresses. They appeared like frangipani petals to me especially that they seemed to wilt slightly under the noontime sun. However, the strong light can be divine as it played boldly on the bare shoulder curves of the dancers, highlighting the elegance, if not the sultriness of the female form. When a dancer began toying with her extra-long beaded necklace which extended right down to her knees, my camera was quick to oblige.


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/3200s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 400


I continued taking portraits of these girls with my 100mm f/2.8 Macro lens, testing its rigor as an all around lens for street photography. When set at infinity, the lens is capable of acting as a telephoto lens although I noticed that the details either get blown out by harsh light or underexposed if under the shade. Exposure compensation is important and nothing beats doing test shots and chimping until you get the feel of the lighting conditions.


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/4000s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 400, -2/3 EV


Definitely, the lens is excellent for closeup portraits. Its 100mm focal length means you don’t need to come too close and intrude into some body’s personal space. The f/2.8 aperture also provides appreciable bokeh but be quick with the manual focusing to get the appropriate plane of field.



Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/1600s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 400, -1/3 EV

Bali Arts Festival 2008- part 2

Over a period of one month, from June 14-July 12, the Bali Arts Festival celebrates the cultural heritage of Bali and beyond. Art teams from districts all throughout the island and the outlying provinces would converge in the Bali Arts Center in Denpasar to present cultural performances, from the traditional to the neoclassical and even modern. Dance, literature, music, sculpture, whatever art form there is, these can be found in a backdrop of a pameran country fair, Indonesia-style.

Every year, foreign delegations would also come over to showcase their own festivals or cultural features, hoping to draw in the same tourists that flock over Bali. This year alone, about 14 troups are joining the Bali Arts Festival.

To celebrate the glory of Bali, what better way than present portraits of Balinese ladies in all their regal fineries. They are sure magnets of the photographers anywhere.

Before my trip, I bought a 100mm f/2.8 macro lens. I tested it as an all around lens in the Bali Arts Festival and I must say, I love it! Here some tips on how to convert this sharp macro lens for street portraiture:
1. Set the focus to manual. Practice and learn how to focus. Trust your eyes to get the right sharpness.
2. Adjust the exposure compensation and test what is right for the prevailing light conditions.
3. To prevent camera shake, ensure that your shutter speed is 1/100s or faster. You may have to increase the ISO, or use flash.

beauties of Bali


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/200s, f/2.8, 50mm, ISO 200, +1/3 EV
phototip: Stalk. This lady was texting in her cell phone at the same time chatting with her friends. I knew that sooner, she would look up as they always would after using the phone. She did and I got rewarded with this Julia Roberts mile-wide smile. (uncropped)



Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/1000s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 400, +1/3 EV
phototip: Frame. I had several shots of this beauty but I wanted to frame her among her friends and the banten offerings that they were carrying. (very slightly cropped)



Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/2000s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 400, -1/3EV



Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/1250s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 400, +1/3 EV
phototip: Be on the lookout for the “different”. While all the other girls were posing for the photographers, I noticed one solitary lass who looked at me. I smiled and she returned the favor here. (uncropped)



Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/640s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 200, +2/3 EV
phototip: Wait for the right moment. These girls aren’t dancing. They were stretching and folding their banners. A lot of things are happening during the waiting period before the start of the parade so be quick and be ready with your camera. (uncropped)

Bali Arts Festival 2008- part 1

This year is the 30th holding of the annual Bali Arts Festival. Over the years, I’ve attended several of the performances and exhibitions of the month-long affair but I still haven’t had the opportunity to watch its grand opening parade. My timing, obviously, was shot. Not until this year.

Finally last June 14, I found myself on the streets of Denpasar. My close Balinese friends told me that it is their first time too to attend the opening meped as they’ve always contented themselves to viewing the proceeding in the television.

Part commercial, cultural and religious, the parade features the best that Bali can offer. Numerous seka or cultural groups put a spectacular display and studied performance to live up to its billing as the biggest and grandest cultural festival in Indonesia.

A lot of research, money and organization are poured into this grand opening parade. I expected colors, costumes and beauty and I got more. And so did thousands who braved the heat of the afternoon sun, including scores of photographers who jostled for the best angles and positions along the parade route.

Over the next several posts, I would feature the spectacle of the parade, if only to relive the excitement and relish the fulfillment of a wish that I long made a long time ago.






phototip: Shoot at relatively slower shutter speed to create action.



phototip: Another technique in capturing action, especially in a fast moving parade, is to move the barrel of the lens while shooting at a relatively slow shutter speed. Zooming in or out the lens could enhance the perception of action.






phototip: A smile always trumps the harried expression.

The Meped Parade (Ngusabe Sukawati, part 2)

continued from Portraits in the Temple of Ngusabe Sukawati.

The meped is the ceremonial procession in Bali. To the public, it often is the highlight of temple anniversaries, religious observances and other rites. As in a parade of any other culture, it is a showcase. Of course there is meaning and reason to the parade, from the spiritual to the social, but it is an occasion to be see and to be seen.

As I’ve described in the first part, there is a unique attribute to the meped of the Ngusabe celebration in Pura Dalem Gede Sukawati that I was excited to watch: the fabulous formal costumes.

After having my fill of portrait shots in the temple (part 1), I decided it was time to find a good spot for the procession. I wanted to shoot from an elevated vantage point and I was not in any mood knocking on somebody else’s door (not that homeowners would likely let strangers in either). There was only one obvious place: the Sukawati public market. Of the 4 buildings of the market complex spread at the highway intersection, the best vantage point would be second floor balcony of the food market building as it directly looks over the road.

We were just in time. Shortly after we settled in a spot, we could already hear percussive sound of the drums and cymbals approaching. The temple is only about 4 blocks away. Like in most parades, music plays an integral role, beckoning and ushering the mass of humanity forward. Music, in this case was the traditional gamelan orchestra. Preceded by ceremonial penjor banners and pajeng umbrellas, the gamelan must be more than 20-man strong. Immediately following the gamelan were women dressed in uniform orange kebayas and sarung, which is standard temple wear.


phototip: An elevated vantage point always provides you a more comprehensive view of any parade.
Canon EOS 350D, 0.004s, f/6.3, 35mm, ISO 100, +2/3EV
the front end of the meped parade, Sukawati, Gianyar, Bali, Indonesia

The first specially dressed participants were the young boys. Persuading boys to wear the formal attire must be difficult as there weren’t a lot of then. Probably they were less than 20 in all.


phototip: Tilting the frame can be interesting.
Canon EOS 350D, 0.002s, f/6.3, 90mm, ISO 100
young boys joining the meped parade, Sukawati, Gianyar, Bali, Indonesia


Next came the young girls of prepubescent age. They literally looked like walking dolls, sashaying slowly in their tightly wound skirts. Being not older than twelve, they, like their boy counterparts were exempted from walking barefoot, as dictated by the strict adat rule associated with the formal costume they wear.


phototip: A diagonal can be a pleasing composition.
Canon EOS 350D, 0.005s, f/6.3, 135mm, ISO 100, +2/3EV
prepubuscent girls joining meped parade, Sukawati, Gianyar, Bali, Indonesia


Older participants had little choice however. When the teeners came – they came next after the girls – practically all of them were barefoot. Walking on hard asphalt certainly entailed stoic sacrifice. Even at 4PM, the temperature of the road should still be scalding in hot and humid Bali. Some did wear sandals but they were few and far between. Going barefoot must be like a badge of courage.


phototip: The backside can be as interesting as the front.
Canon EOS 350D, 0.008s, f/6.3, 75mm, ISO 200, +2/3EV
teenage girls joining meped parade, Sukawati, Gianyar, Bali, Indonesia

The order of the meped seems to be arranged according to age. As befitting their maturity, the older participants got to wear more elaborate the costumes.


phototip: Incorporate long shadows in the composition.
Canon EOS 350D, 0.001s, f/6.3, 210mm, ISO 400
teenage girls joining meped parade, Sukawati, Gianyar, Bali, Indonesia


Among the more ornate attire that afternoon was the young lady below. From the heavily gilded songket skirt to the heavy 2-feet gold foil headdress, she was a vision of magnificence. Her bangles are definitely real gold as are her traditional waist band, arm bracelet and bib.

Canon EOS 350D, 0.001s, f/6.3, 300mm, ISO 400
Sukawati, Bali, Indonesia
a young lady in the meped parade, Sukawati, Gianyar, Bali, Indonesia


Unquestionably, the parade was well attended. Traffic literally was stopped as the major roads around the temple and market were halved. Also note the mermaid tail of the kamben sarung skirts. Walking gracefully while dragging the long end of the skirt on the ground takes skill and practice. And if the the tail got in the way, the girls just easily aligned it by a swift flip of a foot.

Canon EOS 350D, 0.003s, f/6.3, 120mm, ISO 400, +1/3EV
young ladies in the meped parade, Sukawati, Gianyar, Bali, Indonesia


There were also groups within the parade. I am assuming that they were certain clans who wanted to parade in uniform. One of the most striking was this group of ladies of various ages in gold kamben sarung brocade and matching gold and fuschia anteng tops. With them in the picture below are two male elder regents, called patih.

Canon EOS 350D, 0.002s, f/6.3, 75mm, ISO 400, -1/3EV
the meped parade, Sukawati, Gianyar, Bali, Indonesia


The final file before the general public was a batch of women wearing white. I think they belong to the brahamana caste, as the color is reserved only for priests who dispense religious duties inside the temple during religious ceremonies. Closing the procession is another gamelan, although the musicians look like a junior bank composed mostly of teeners. They must be the orchestra in training.


Canon EOS 350D, 0.004s, f/5.6, 55mm, ISO 200
Sukawati, Bali, Indonesia


The parade route was around 3 kilometers long. Starting from the temple, it wound around the art market and stopped at a juncture near a river bank. The parade was just midway.

Part 3: Closing the Ngusabe