the seaweed farmhouses of Hingutanan

In Bohol, particularly in the northern part of the province facing Leyte, seaweed is big. Considered as one of Bohol’s most productive centers is the small island of Hingutanan. The island is politically part of the municipality of Bien Unido and is now divided into two barangays, East and West. A visit in Hingutanan would however reveal that seaweed is largely grown outside of island, a bit further into the reef. There, tens of farmhouses have been erected on stilts, serving both as a drying platform and as an entrepot of dried seaweed.


bamboo is the common material of the seaweed farmhouses



green and brown seaweed at Hingutanan



seaweed lines being planted on the reef of Danahon



arriving at a platform at Hingutanan


Seaweed farming started in late 70s and today, it is considered as a popular industry for its low capitalization requirement and steady market. There are two types of seaweed grown in Bohol- cottonii and spinosum. Both may appear in various morphological types, sizes and colors. Spinosum, the cheaper variety, is noted for its spines that are arranged in whorls around the thallus. Cottonii, is free of these spines.


seaweed being at a platform in Hingutanan



weighing the wet harvest



fish, dried under the sun



motorized outrigger boat serving the farmhouse

the wonders of the River Loboc

a summer favorite

Bohol is often compared to Cebu. Unsurprisingly, the smaller and quieter province that is Bohol might pale in comparison to the flashier and richer state that is Cebu. Cebu can match and debatably exceed what Bohol has to offer – think of beach resorts, centuries-old churches, business buzz, cosmopolitan and entertainment sophistication. But not really. When it comes to natural bounties, Bohol can easily outshine Cebu. Here’s just a short litany of Bohol’s natural wonders that Cebu could envy: wider reefs and sandbars, taller waterfalls, larger caverns, more exotic fauna.


the tarsiers at the banks of Loboc are a popular attraction


typical scene alongside Loboc River


And let me add, the River that is Loboc. For all of Cebu’s chutzpah, my home province sorely lacks a raging voluminous freshwater river that has the size in life and energy of Loboc.


portrait of a boy who hitched a ride in our river cruise


I admit I must have taken Loboc River cruises at least four times and I never tire of repeating the upstream ride. Who could not enjoy the enveloping lushness of the bamboo thickets and fruit tree forest, the deepening crescendo of the river currents and the soothing coolness of being in the heart of a world of water and greens? Whether I pick the commercial floating restaurants which are are actually two native catamarans bound and boarded together (note: they offer buffets and live entertainment to boot) or opt for the smaller and cheaper banca, I always try to straight up to the wildly charging Busay Falls.


the Busay Falls which marks the end of the Loboc River cruise


Luck must be on Loboc’s side as it has more than its share of attractions than most other parts of the province. This town is known as a haven of the famous tarsier, one of the smallest primates in the world. Its church, the St. Peter the Apostle, boasts of fantastic murals, relieves and history. It also serves as the base of the world famous Loboc Children's Choir which supports the town claim as the music capital of Bohol.


Loboc is known as the music capital of Bohol


the Church of St Peter, the Apostle, as seen from the riverside


For all these bragging rights, I still dare say that nothing compares to the joy of the cruise. I play favorites and I love the river most.


playful local boys often joyride on the river cruises


To go to Loboc: Loboc is only some 24 kilometers or 40 minutes ride from the capital Tagbilaran City. Take the jeepney, mini-bus or habal-habal motorcycle.


Loboc, in sepia

Philippine Summer Destinations, part 5

The good news is that the forecast of La Nina rains has been lifted. The Philippines will have normal summer after all! The season is expected to be hot, dry and sunny, just as we like it.

Where to head off to get some cool relief from the heat? Here are three more suggestions.

Samal Island, Davao del Norte

It’s officially known as the Island Garden City of Samal or IGaCoS. Really. Campy, yes, but true to its name which means to embrace in Cebuano, the island offers the obligatory white beaches (there are more than 20 resorts), several waterfalls (the prettiest is Hagimit), a world famous bat cave, mountain climbing trails, mangrove forests and orchards of sweet exotic fruits. Best part is, the island is only 10 minutes away by ferry from Davao City. This is paradise just a stone’s throw away from the big city.


the Hagimit falls in Penaplata, Samal Island
Canon EOS 5d, 1/12000s, f/4.0, 17mm, ISO 100



for locals, the Paradise Island Resort is perhaps Samal island’s most popular resort
Canon EOS 5d, 1/12000s, f/4.0, 17mm, ISO 100


Panglao Island, Bohol

The island of Panglao is the “it” destination in Bohol. Immaculate fine sand, steep limestone cliffs, caves with underground streams, a bee farm, and two 19th century stone churches are just some of their come-ons. Boholanos are also known to be gentle, soft-spoken and hospitable. The island is conveniently across the capital city of Tagbilaran, connected by two slipway bridges. It too can be a take-off point to other destinations like the famed reef island of Balicasag.


the famous Dumaluan beach offers an expanse of white sand and clear blue waters
Canon PowerShot S40, 1/1250s, f/7.1, 7.1mm



colorful ukulele souvenirs at stalls in the famous Hinagdanan Cave
Canon PowerShot S40, 1/30s, f/5.0, 7.1mm


Mactan Island, Cebu

My home island of Mactan should be in the top list of summer destinations in any book. The stretches of white sand in the east (Marigondon, Maribago, Agus) and north (Punta Engano) are home to some of the best five star resorts in the country. Diving, water sports, island hops, spas are just one of the islands renowned attractions. Historically, this is the island where Magellan eventually met his match. In the shallow coast of Mactan was where he was killed in the famous battle in 1521. Lapu-Lapu City, the official name of the island, is no sleepy town. It is the location of the biggest and busiest export processing zone of Cebu and of course, the biggest international airport outside of Manila.


kayaking is popular in Mactan
Canon PowerShot S40, 1/1000s, f/3.2, 7.1mm



this limestone obelisk in Mactan commemorates the victory of the local chieftain, Lapu-Lapu, over Magellan
Canon PowerShot S40, 1/125s, f/2.8, 7.1mm

old school music in Loboc, Bohol

Traditional funerals are accompanied by brassband music. Funeral dirges are played by community musicians who will lead the mourning march, first, from the house of the deceased to the church (for requiem mass) and last, to the cemetery. One always knows a funeral by the slow sad music being played. Nowadays in urban centers not like Loboc where I took this picture, bands are slowly replaced by loudspeakers blaring out taped music or song. Sometimes, there will be none at all for expediency.


at Loboc Church, Bohol, the Philippines
Canon EOS 350D Digital, 4/5s, f/9, 48mm, ISO 100, +1/3EV

To the Northern Islands of Bohol

Finally, after a botched plan to visit the seaweed farms in North Bohol last Tuesday (Sept 30), canceled by the typhoon Pablo, we were able to take advantage of a lull in the weather on Thursday (October 2). The sun was up, the monsoon winds were leashed and the waters were still. Calm. Just the way I like it. To Bohol we went.

Bohol has 3 municipalities which are substantial seaweed producers in the region: Jetafe, Talibon and Bien Unido. Traditionally, the most productive is Bien Unido, specifically the island of Hingutanan which sits on the nutrients-rich Danahon reef.

I often go to North Bohol at least three times a year. We would just rent a boat at the Buot Port in Mactan, Cebu. A day trip nowadays costs about 5,500-7,000 pesos, depending on the size of the boat and the destination islands. While we always make boat arrangements before a trip, one can always do this on the day of the departure. As North Bohol is about 3 hours away from Mactan, we also start early before 8AM so that we could get back before 5PM.

Motorized outrigger interisland boats are quite noisy. Conversations are difficult to carry unless you shout over the din of the roaring motor. Soon enough though, this would just be white noise and the views of the outlying islands of Mactan and Bohol would more than provide moments of peace. Mostly, my companions would use this time to take a nap. Or, in my case, I would take photographs.

First stop in this trip was Hingutanan island. It was nip tide so the waters weren’t deep enough so we could not use the north route which goes directly to the shallow Danahon Reef. Instead, we took the more circuitous route via Talibon, where the deeper channel runs.



Canon EOS 350D, 1/3200s, f/5.6, 300mm, ISO100
a fisherman in the sea near Talibon, Bohol, the Philippines


When we arrived at Hingutanan, it was already way past 10AM. The seaweed platform was a hive of activity, as always. Seaweed harvests were being delivered to the farmhouse for weighing, accounting and sundrying. While it was too early for lunch, there was a bounty of seafood waiting for us so who are we to say no?



freshly harvested seaweed being delivered to a farmhouse in Hingutanan, Bien Unido, Bohol, the Philippines


After some amount of work, we then headed off to Danahon Reef to check on the health of the spinosum farms. This type of seaweed is basically growing “wild” and are hardly farmed at all. They just roll on the reef and are collected during low tide. Danahon is such a vast stretch of reef and the part north of Hingutanan is one which is relatively shallow. As the depth is probably about 3-5 fathoms deep (1 fathom, or "dupa" in Cebuano is 1 breadth of outstretched arms), the waters are not scarily dark at all but sport bright shades of aqua and green. Perfectly tempting for snorkeling!



approaching the Danahon Reef (Hingutanan side), Bien Unido, Bohol, the Philippines



seaweed platforms on Danahon Reef (Hingutanan side), Bien Unido, Bohol, the Philippines


Dotting the reef are close to twenty platforms, used as farmhouses for the collecting and drying of the seaweed. The area is regulated by the municipal government of Bien Unido and hectares are being leased for a minimal amount on an annual basis.



spinosum being delivered to a farmhouse in Danahon Reef (Hingutanan side), Bien Unido, Bohol, the Philippines



spinosum being dried in a farmhouse in Danahon Reef (Hingutanan side), Bien Unido, Bohol, the Philippines


At the reef, we had a bit of a setback as our engine conked. The detour was luckily short and we quickly found ourselves on the way to Jao island. This island, by some twist of gerrymandering, is composed of 3 barangays. (A barangay is the smallest political unit in the Philippines). One barangay, Pinamgo, belongs to Bien Unido which it faces. The western half of the island, however reports to another municipality, Talibon. Such a small island but two distinct municipality affiliations. Go figure!

The eastern coast of Jao, specifically the sitio of Lawis in barangay Pinamgo is already surrounded by monolines of farmed cottonii seaweed. It seems that growth rates are higher here than in most other islands so the coast is decked by long lines of farmed seaweed.


cultivation lines of cottonii seaweed near the shore of sitio Lawis, barangay Pinamgo, Bien Unido-side of Jao Island, Bohol, the Philippines


For lack of space for drying, farmers in Jao prefer air-drying the seaweed, hanging them like clothes, instead of cutting the seaweed free from lines and spreading them over a platform. It is not technically the preferable mode as cleaning out plastic tie materials is difficult when the seaweed is dry.



harvested lines of cottonii seaweed being air-dried in a farmhouse off sitio Lawis, barangay Pinamgo, Bien Unido-side of Jao Island, Bohol, the Philippines



harvested lines of cottonii seaweed being air-dried in sitio Lawis, barangay Pinamgo, Bien Unido-side of Jao Island, Bohol, the Philippines



closeup of cottonii seaweed being air-dried in sitio Lawis, barangay Pinamgo, Bien Unido-side of Jao Island, Bohol, the Philippines


Of course, we had another meal in Jao island, our second “lunch” of the day. This time, we had sumptuous freshly steamed crabs and wasay-wasay shells. Work always is easier when the stomach is full, or kept full to be more exact. Too bad that we could not dilly dally as we needed to get back home.

The trip back to Cebu was uneventful. It took us 2.5 hours. Maybe our boat really was slow. Or maybe not. Distance and time have a way of warping when I visit the islands.


a DENR substation in the sandbar of Jao Island, Bohol, the Philippines

Pandanon redux

It is raining today in Cebu. Most days of the past two weeks though, it has pretty been viciously hot. Too bad that the waters around the islands remain choppy. It is the monsoon of Habagat or the southwest wind which predicates tidal swells and stormy seas. The typhoon-laden wind only makes me wish for summer, when weather is gentle and perfect for the beach.

While travel to my favorite islands appear hard nowadays, I could not help but pine for the sand, the sun and the seas of Pandanon. I may not be able to go there now but I had some Pandanon Island escapade photographs to keep me company.



Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/100s, f/10, 18mm, ISO 100, +1/3EV
Pandanon island, Getafe, Bohol, Philippines



Pandanon is like two islands linked by a narrow isthmus. One end is almost pure sand. The other is inhabited by a small barangay of about 300 people, ekeing out a living from the seas, and now, from tourism.
Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/80s, f/16, 18mm, ISO 100, -1/3EV
Pandanon island, Getafe, Bohol, Philippines



I was passing through the small fishing village of Pandanon when I bumped into these boys. They saw my camera and eagerly asked that I take pictures of them with their teddy bears. Ah, innocence!
Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/30s, f/5, 39mm, ISO 100
Pandanon island, Getafe, Bohol, Philippines

Pandanon island escapade

An islet heaving with white sand and sitting in the middle of a vast blue Camotes sea is the definition of paradise by most people. Pandanon island used to be a little known secret, tucked safely away from Mactan resorts and its more accessible islands. Pandanon is part of the archipelago of North Bohol and is politically appended to Getafe.



the southern face of the east end of Pandanon island, Getafe, Bohol, the Philippines



a hut at east end of Pandanon island, Getafe, Bohol, the Philippines



a talisay tree at the lagoon of the east end of Pandanon island, Getafe, Bohol, the Philippines



the south lagoon of Pandanon island, Getafe, Bohol, the Philippines


Back in 2002, when I visited it first, Pandanon was not as developed as it is now but no less impressive. Now, it has a centerpiece columnade pavilion (it was used several years back in a national shampoo commercial), a picturesque white chapel for weddings and a concrete port building.



the southern face of the east end of Pandanon island way back in 2002, Getafe, Bohol, the Philippines

Landing fee is about P100/person and no reservations are needed. There always is a hut available for renting. The other amenities like tables, grills and even food can also availed of from an island cooperative and proceeds go to the community. The resort has no overnight facilities though although campouts or home stay arrangements are possible.



a view of the western main island of Pandanon, Getafe, Bohol, the Philippines
flashback

The resort in the east end is impressive. The one-hectare stretch of white sand is carved by several lagoons. Pandanon is more than just a mound of sand. If you venture further to the west following the narrow isthmus, you will be led to the greener partition of the island where a thriving island community of about 350 families and 2,000 people reside. Obviously, island living is linked almost solely to the sea, from fishing and recently, seaweed farming.



boys displaying their catch of fishes at Pandanon, Getafe, Bohol, the Philippines


People in Pandanon are exceedingly friendly. The island alleys are quite constricted and narrow but people don’t mind strangers crisscrossing their yards. I was carrying my camera and everytime I pass by kids always beg “picture”, “picture” without fail. Of course I gave in all the time.


frolicking boys at Pandanon, Getafe, Bohol, the Philippines


Getting there. Rent motorized boats from any point in Mactan, from the northend port of Punta Engano beside the Hilton, through any of the beach resorts in Maribago, Agus or Marigondon, to the southend port of Cordova. Summer weekend prices start at about P3,500 for a 30-person sized boat to about P5,000 if you don’t haggle. Discounts or premiums are common depending on season and boat size.


approaching the north side of Pandanon island, Getafe, Bohol, the Philippines

Philippine Summer Destinations, part 1

The hot summer in the Philippines is enjoyed in the months of March to May whereupon domestic tourism will be at its busiest. Synonymous with sun, sand and sea, summer is vacation time, when school is off and people hie off to relax. In the next few weeks, I will feature in separate blogs several summer Philippine destinations, all of which are my own personal choices for the year.

Alegre Resort in Sogod, Cebu

Some 70+km north of Cebu City is Sogod, a quiet town facing the Camotes Sea in the east and rugged mountainous terrain in the interior. There amidst 27 hectares of undulating hills, beach coves and coconut groves is the exclusive five-star resort of Alegre. Meaning “cheerful” in Cebuano, as adopted from Spanish, Alegre takes its name to the hilt.


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1.0s, f/13, 18mm, ISO 100, -2/3EV, w/ 1 ND0.9 filter
a secluded cove in Alegre Beach Resort, Sogod, North Cebu, the Philippines


Pandanon Island in Gitafe, Bohol
Getting there is adventure enough. The 1 ½ hours motorized boat ride from Mactan to Pandanon island is a cruise that begs the question, why are we bypassing the turquoise waters and white beaches of several picturesque islands that hordes of tourists trek to Mactan for? Upon arrival, you’ll know.


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/100s, f/22, 18mm, ISO 100
Pandanon Island, Getafe, Bohol, the Philippines


Siquijor Island, Central Visayas
The land of witchcraft the island of Siquijor is known. Known in the past as Isla de Fuego, Siquijor justifies its reputation of mystic by the annual congregation of witchdoctors and local healers every Good Friday solely to concoct traditional potions. Perhaps beknownst only by a few, Siquijor offers definitely more than a source for supernatural tales for children. The island offers virgin forests, expansive stretches of white beaches and a culture of peace-loving, religious and gentle people.


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1.2s, f/22, 18mm, ISO 100, +1.00EV
the Princesa Bulakna Beach Resort, Candaping Bay, Maria, Siquijor, the Philippines

part of an ongoing series on Philippine summer destinations:
part 1 - Alegre (Cebu), Pandanon Island (Bohol), Siquijor Island
part 2 (the isolation series) - the sandbar of Bais (Negros Oriental), Inampulugan Island (Guimaras), Mambucal (Negros Occidental)
part 3 - (Pagudpud, Bantayan, Dakak)