beyond the beach of Matemwe, Zanzibar

Beyond the wide and white beach of Matemwe in Unguja Island (Zanzibar) is a string of villages not unlike many others in the northeast – they depend on the sea for a living. An obvious and ready work is fishing. The coastline, undeniably, sits on a healthy reef, renowned for snorkeling and diving, and boasts of a teeming population of fish, octopus and shells.


exceedingly tall coconut trees always seem to swirl all over the beach



the tidal flat of Matemwe stretches about half a kilometer into the sea


Nowadays though, seaweed farming is becoming predominant, and majority of the several thousands of families in the area are engaged in this form of marine agriculture.


For lack of space, hang-drying is the preferred mode of desiccation of cultivated seaweed



a seaweed “gate” leads you towards the beach


I was able to visit this place four years ago and I noticed a perceptible alleviation of overall standards in Matemwe. There are now more stone houses instead of temporary ramshackle dwellings. Some of the roofs are now in corrugated GI sheets although woven coconut leaf roofs are still common.


a traditional stone house uses limestone held together by a mixture of mud and clay



a heavily carved "Zanzibar" door in a warehouse in Matemwe


Fortunately, the increase of population in Matemwe comes with better public facilities. Water now runs in public taps provided for by the government. Local mosques have also sprung up and these were all community-built and financed by a pool of fund collected from local taxes.


note the dark kohl around the eyes of the crying girl (she was afraid of us, strangers!)


And where there is a visually endless stretch of powdery white, fine grain sand, there would be the resorts. I count at least eight of them in the map. There could definitely be more in the future.

a cacing legend in Kaliantan

the heavenly beaches of East Lombok- part 5

continued from part 1, part 2, part 3 and part 4

Kaliantan, aside from boasting of one of Lombok’s best beaches also is one of the hosts of the island’s more popular festival, the Bau Nyale.


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/1600s, f/5.6, 270mm, ISO 100, -1/3EV


The festival recalls the legend of the princess Putri Mandalika. Beautiful and beloved by all, she had many suitors from different kingdoms. However, when it came to choosing a husband, she could not decide among her suitors. Her vacillation resulted to turmoil and strife among rivals. Her father King Kuripan ultimately gave her a deadline to choose a husband before sunrise. The next morning, Putri Mandalika, fearing a war, professed that she loved her parents and the people even more and in an act of self-sacrifice for the greater good, threw herself into the sea. It makes me think of Hans Christian Anderson’s The Little Mermaid, doesn’t it?


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/4000s, f/4.5, 105mm, ISO 100, -1/3EV


But there is a local twist. When everyone tried to scour the seas for the princess, they only discovered a mass of sea worms, called nyale in the Sasak language. Thus these worms became a traditional symbol of the Sasak people. (In Bahasa Indonesia, nyale is called cacing but or course!)

Yearly, the people of Lombok celebrate Bau Nyale which literally means “to catch the worms”. It takes place every tenth month of the Sasak calendar which often falls around February or March. This season is chosen as during this time, thousands of sea worms would spawn in the beaches.


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/1000s, f/6.3, 120mm, ISO 100


Celebrated with much fanfare, the festival is best appreciated at nighttime when fires are built on the beach, pameran stalls are set up and traditional Sasak dancing, singing and drama are held. The climax is catching the sea worms at dawn.

Another ritual is for the local priest or dukun to read the future rice harvest based on the number of sea worms, just as if they were a crystal ball, or tea leaves. Some sea worms would then be ground and scattered over irrigation channels in the rice fields to ensure a bountiful harvest.


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/1250s, f/8.0, 4.6mm, ISO 100, -1/3EV


Nyale are eaten raw or they can be steamed or fried. A local specialty is pepes nyale which are banana-wrapped rolls of ground worms with coconut and spices.

It is believed that the sea worms are a symbol of fertility. No wonder that young people also take to flirting with each other all throughout festival time, which is unusual in a conservative Muslim island like Lombok.

So cacing seaworms as aphrodisiac anyone? If not, there is always the fabulous beach.


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/2000s, f/5.0, 220mm, ISO 100, -1/3EV

Pandanon redux

It is raining today in Cebu. Most days of the past two weeks though, it has pretty been viciously hot. Too bad that the waters around the islands remain choppy. It is the monsoon of Habagat or the southwest wind which predicates tidal swells and stormy seas. The typhoon-laden wind only makes me wish for summer, when weather is gentle and perfect for the beach.

While travel to my favorite islands appear hard nowadays, I could not help but pine for the sand, the sun and the seas of Pandanon. I may not be able to go there now but I had some Pandanon Island escapade photographs to keep me company.



Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/100s, f/10, 18mm, ISO 100, +1/3EV
Pandanon island, Getafe, Bohol, Philippines



Pandanon is like two islands linked by a narrow isthmus. One end is almost pure sand. The other is inhabited by a small barangay of about 300 people, ekeing out a living from the seas, and now, from tourism.
Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/80s, f/16, 18mm, ISO 100, -1/3EV
Pandanon island, Getafe, Bohol, Philippines



I was passing through the small fishing village of Pandanon when I bumped into these boys. They saw my camera and eagerly asked that I take pictures of them with their teddy bears. Ah, innocence!
Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/30s, f/5, 39mm, ISO 100
Pandanon island, Getafe, Bohol, Philippines

Take me to Kaliantan

the heavenly beaches of East Lombok- part 4

continued from part 1, part 2 and part 3 and more in part 5


My list of fabulous beaches in Lombok Timor just keeps on getting longer. My newest addition is Kaliantan. Last month, I visited this sleepy village and I am awed by the vistas it offers, which to me are as impressive as its neighbor Sumerang.

While the much more crowded villages of Sumerang and Serewe (or Seriwe) are not identified in commercial maps, Kaliantan is often identified.

It is difficult to explain this anomaly. Perhaps Kaliantan was originally more populous. It appears to be less peopled now as seaweed cultivation has attracted more and more farmers to Sumerang and Serewe which are more sheltered from the wind.

Kaliantan could be the older village and is most probably the cultural center of the bay. After all, it is one of the few places which hold the annual Bau Nyale Festival which celebrates a local Sasak legend involving sea worms.

more on this festival soon




Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/250s, f/14, 55mm, ISO 100, -1/3EV
the beach at Kaliantan, East Lombok, Indonesia




Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/500s, f/20, 205mm, ISO 100, -1/3EV
a view from Kaliantan beach, East Lombok, Nusa Tenggara Barat, Indonesia




Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/500s, f/20, 170mm, ISO 100, -1/3EV
a cliff by Kaliantan beach, East Lombok, Nusa Tenggara Barat, Indonesia




Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/640s, f/5.6, 55mm, ISO 100, -1/3EV
villagers herding sheep by the road at Kaliantan, East Lombok, Nusa Tenggara Barat, Indonesia




Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/2000s, f/4.5, 90mm, ISO 100, -1/3EV
a village shed by the road at Kaliantan, East Lombok, Nusa Tenggara Barat, Indonesia

Blitzing Indonesia

I always do this and get myself into a bind.

It’s work and I have to go fast to Indonesia. Let’s say I was too ambitious and tried to squeeze 6 major areas in 5 days: Surabaya, Makassar, Lombok, Sumbawa, Bima, Bali. I ended up short and failed to go to Bima and just barely made it to Sumbawa Besar. Still not bad.

Trouble was I left Cebu without getting any confirmed ticket out of Indonesia. Almost thought I’d have to go to Jakarta where there are more seats out to Hong Kong (I am booked in Cathay Pacific). Thankfully, I finally got a berth yesterday. So here I am trying to finish off my last few hours in Bali.

I will be posting more photographs soon but obviously, they will be centered mostly on my travel around seaweed cultivation. It’s work as always.


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/200s, f/5.6, 300mm, ISO 200, -1/3EV (uncropped, enhanced)
a topless woman seaweed farmer in Sawangan, Nusa Dua, Bali, Indonesia

the heavenly beaches of East Lombok- part 3

continued from part 1and part 2 and more in part 4 and part 5

portraits at the beach

Artificial lighting is not my forte. I have a speedlite, the entry level 430ex, but I rarely bring it in my travels as my bag, saddled already with 3 additional lenses, has become too heavy for me. Not having any external flash does not inhibit or preclude me from taking portraits. There is always ambient light. The sun, without a doubt, is the best source of light you can have.

Perhaps the easiest portraits to do those whose subjects are cooperative. It never hurts to ask permission. Often, if you are polite and friendly enough, people would willingly allow you to take photographs.

Take this family in Serewe, East Lombok, for instance. They were sitting idly in a shed at Serewe, taking a break from from seaweed cultivation as it was just after lunchtime. I, too, was in hurry in getting back to my party so I only took two shots. Not having had any time to reset my camera from its aperture priority setting that was set at f/14 (I was shooting landscapes earlier), so I got a 1/10 second exposure which was much slower than what I normally can do. At this speed, camera shake is an issue and my pulse is spotty. The image may not be perfectly sharp but I love the motion blur of the father who glanced back adoringly at his son just as I clicked the camera.


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/10s, f/14, 55mm, ISO 100, -1/3EV
boats for seaweed farming at Serewe, East Lombok, Indonesia

On the other hand, it pays to get a candid shot. Think of spontaneous, unrehearsed happenstances.

In the next photo, a fisherman just came off from his boat and was making his way home when I chanced upon him. He did not show any particular interest in me and my camera but neither did he mind me photographing him. Getting him face me directly was not easy but I was able to capture him when he stopped and turned around to show his catch to another fisherman whose shadow you can see in the bottom left corner of the photo.


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/125s, f/16, 55mm, ISO 100, -1/3EV
a fisherman in Sumerang, East Lombok, Indonesia


The photograph below was taken in Sumerang Beach. I spotted this old lady who was gathering seaweed that broke off from the cultivation lines. Knowing that portraits would be interesting, I took about 15 shots. I tried setting her against the dramatic scenery as behind her were the cliffs of the opposite side of the U-shaped Sumerang bay. Precisely because the sight behind her was too breathtaking, I felt that a long shot would lose the connection of her labor.


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/500s, f/11, 85mm, ISO 100, -1/3EV
a seaweed gatherer in Sumerang, East Lombok, Indonesia


By zooming in on her activity, which literally is backbreaking, I felt that I would be able to tell her story more intimately and honestly. Catching the seaweed fragments that were drifting to shore is not an easy task. I doubt if she would be able to collect enough fresh seaweed in a few hours that would sell for a dollar. But despite the harsh elements, the biting sun, the swirling current and lapping waves, she persevered diligently, collecting whatever she could.


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/400s, f/11, 300mm, ISO 100, -1/3EV
a seaweed gatherer in Sumerang, East Lombok, Indonesia

the heavenly beaches of East Lombok- part 2

continued from part 1 and more in part 3, part 4 and part 5

How did I come to know the heavenly beaches of Serewe and Sumerang?

About 15 years ago, I lived for short periods of time in East Lombok, specifically in its “capital” town of Selong. My visits are frequent, at least four times a year, but I only stayed for a little less than two weeks each time. I was working on my master’s thesis then and I got dispensation from my boss that I can spend more time in my home base Cebu (the Philippines). My work was on the quality side of a seaweed project which aimed to develop the plantations in the eastern and southern parts of Lombok, with satellite developments in Bali where the project first started and Sumbawa, the island west of Lombok.

If I remembered right, the priority beach was Serewe. Sumerang came in second. At least that is what I remembered. These places were ideal for seaweed: wide reef flats, rich and clean waters with sufficient wave action, plenty of hardworking villagers and without any river tributary which made salinity fairly high and constant all year round.


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/500s, f/11, 18mm, ISO 100, -1/3EV
boats for seaweed farming at Serewe, East Lombok, Indonesia


There was one catch. The beaches are perfect tourist traps. Both coastlines stretch as far as the eyes can see. Their fine white sand extends attractively inland, deep into the villages. And the waters? Just the right shade of aqua blue, thanks to moderately deep waters that are between 10-20 feet deep.

These beaches are no secret. Villagers have always lived under the specter of tourism. Serewe has two hairpin loop-shaped lagoons. Sumerang boasts of six islets arcing around the lagoon, two of which are photogenic chimney-type cliffs. There was always gossip that soon some resort will rise in these villages (I am not sure about land titling or ownership in the area). The prospect of relocating the seaweed project always hovered around us. There was no such thing as long term lease for mariculture.


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/250s, f/16, 46mm, ISO 100, -1/3EV
four of several islets in Sumerang, East Lombok, Indonesia


So what happened to the tourism development plans? Nothing. None for the worse. Lombok has far too many white beach islets and bays that are more accessible. There is the famous Senggigi strip which still is relatively underdeveloped. Further north are the three Gili islands.

Moreover, politics and social unrest also came into tragic play. Racial riots spilled into the streets of Mataram in January 2000. Lombok received a bad rep and practically any kind of tourism came to a halt for some time.

Unfortunately for us too, our seaweed project was shelved after severe dieoffs in the mid-90s. Seaweed farming however has become sort of a sustainable habit. The seaweed strains persisted. Slowly, some 10 years after we left in 1997, seaweed growth is spurting back to life with a vengeance, what with private investment and government bank financing.

So this June, I revisited the beaches. It’s work for me. Seeing hundreds of rafts and scores of boats tending the farms was a joyous déjà vu. Corporate-led seaweed farming has been supplanted by a more grassroot family-based independent enterprise. Works fine for me. It’s all for the good.


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/13s, f/5.6, 18mm, ISO 200, +1/3EV
a hearty seafood lunch at Serewe, East Lombok, Indonesia


Even if commercial maps would continue to snub these villages, and resort developers would frown on the sheer 2.5 hours rough road distance from the nearest airport, Sumerang and Serewe stay imprinted in my memory. Not much directions needed.


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/1250s, f/5.6, 250mm, ISO 100, -2/3EV
a seaweed farmer in Sumerang, East Lombok, Indonesia

the heavenly beaches of East Lombok- part 1

continued in part 2, part 3, part 4 and part 5

No offense to Bali – and everyone knows how I adore Bali – the best beaches I’ve had the pleasure to swim in is in the lesser known island east of it, Lombok.

I am not just talking of the strips of Senggigi or the high end Gili islands which Lombok is known for. The beaches I am featuring here are off the beaten track. They are in East Lombok or Lombok Timor (Lotim) in Indonesia and are about 2 hours away from the Mataram airport.

First is Sumerang.

Sumerang is blessed with more than 5 uninhabited islets which arc 180 degrees around the bay. Some are rock flats but at least two are soaring limestone karst cliffs that seem to be sentinels of the blue waters. As for now, there are no signs of tourists. Talk about an undiscovered gem that is not even identified in any commercial map!

My other favorite beach in Lotim is the lagoon of Serewe.

Albeit Serewe would occasionally appear in the map as Seriwe, that the spelling is a subject of confusion signifies how far-flung the area is. Like Sumerang, it is 100% devoid of tourists. Serewe features a narrow U-shaped lagoon which offers waters in a myriad of aqua blue and emerald colors.

How did I get to know these beaches? That is another story…


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/1250s, f/5.6, 190mm, ISO 100, -1/3EV
3 seaweed farmers in Sumerang, East Lombok, Indonesia



Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/1600s, f/5.6, 300mm, ISO 100, -1/3EV
fishing in Sumerang, East Lombok, Indonesia


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/200s, f/14, 18mm, ISO 100, -1/3EV
Serewe, East Lombok, Indonesia

Alegre Beach Resort

Alegre Beach Resort is North Cebu’s premier resort. Opened in 1992, it has an enviable spot in the rustic coastal town of Sogod, some 70 km from the ciy. Boasting some 27 hectares of rugged terrain, a coconut grove and secluded beach coves sheltered by limestone hills, the resort offers exclusivity like no other.


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/640s, f/8.0, 18mm, ISO 100, +2/3EV
the southern cove of Alegre Beach Resort, Sogod, Cebu, the Philippines
phototip: Add visual interest to an empty beach by incorporating local color like a creeping vine.


Privacy has a price, make no mistake about it. There are no day visit rates – it is too far from the city anyway – and discounted rates for two start at about P7,500 ($181) per night. This is inclusive of all taxes, city transfers, breakfast and other freebies like a boat tour around the Camotes Sea and use of a kayak. The resort only has about 20 cabanas, each with two adjoining rooms.


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/100s, f/6.3, 55mm, ISO 100
manicured walkway in Alegre Beach Resort, Sogod, Cebu, the Philippines
phototip: Try low angles to vary perspective.


Review

Room. Each room is large and has a balcony and a garden, facing the hills or the sea.. Only the best Cebu furnitures and furnishings are used by the resort. From woven rattan, abaca rope to hardwood molave, the furnishings are not your typical mall staples. They must have been ordered straight from a famed Cebu high end furniture exporters. But Alegre’s biggest come-on is its spacious walk-in bathroom, with separate stalls for the shower and the toilet and as its centerpiece a large bath tub in the center. If you get lucky like us who got upgraded to a seaview cabana, we had a spanky new Kohler jacuzzi! Rating= 5/5



Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/125s, f/8.0, 18mm, ISO 100, +1/3EV
the staircase at the pool, Alegre Beach Resort, Sogod, Cebu, the Philippines



Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/250s, f/8.0, 55mm, ISO 100, +1.00EV
a peek of the central cove through dense foliage, as seen from the Pavilion, Alegre Beach Resort, Sogod, Cebu, the Philippines


Traveling with babies. The resort is child-friendly. We called ahead before our visit to reserve a baby cot so that was convenient. The waiting staff of the main Pavillion restaurant also were eagerly helpful in the sterilization of the milk bottles which we had to request every morning and evening. Children up to age two also are not levied extra accommodation charges. Rating= 4/5


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/1000s, f/8.0, 18mm, ISO 100, +1/3EV
the long stretch of sand in the central cove of Alegre Beach Resort, Sogod, Cebu, the Philippines


Food. Lunch and dinner buffets, whether at the Pavilion or at the Cliff Seaside BBQ and Bar, are expensive at about P800/person ($19) although this is just about the same charge you get in 5-star hotels in the city like the Marriott or Marco Polo. There is significant variety of Filipino and Continental dishes. For locals who are saving up on their precious peso, sneaking in your own provisions seems to be acceptable, if discreetly done. Room service is available, especially for those who want to stay nestled privately in the gardens of their cabanas, but it is only available from 6AM to 11PM. Breakfast buffet is plentiful although the selection is modest. Their cinnamon-raisin rolls are delicately puffed and are one of the best I had in Cebu. Also watch out for their ube ensaymada which melts in your mouth. Rating= 4/5



Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/500s, f/8.0, 230mm, ISO 100, +2/3EV
a setup at the Cliff Seaside BBQ and Bar, Alegre Beach Resort, Sogod, Cebu, the Philippines
phototip: Even otherwise distracting objects like leaves in the foregroudn can be used as an effective frame.



Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/1250s, f/1.8, 50mm, ISO 100
fruits for breakfast at the Pavilion, Alegre Beach Resort, Sogod, Cebu, the Philippines
phototip: The shallow DOF of the 50MM f/1.8 prime is perfect for food photography.


The beach. Unlike some of the five star resorts in Mactan which had to haul in sand from Bohol, Alegre boasts of all natural beaches. The private coves are wide, white and often near empty, just the way I like it. With only 40 rooms, there could only be 80 guests or so during high season so a crowd cannot be too thick. I brought a snorkel set with me and I swam into their waters. The resort maintains a marine sanctuary marked by white bouys covering about 100 meters into the ocean from the shore so I was expecting thick spectacular corals. I was disappointed. In the waters fronting the central cove, I only saw occasional corals and patches of seagrasses. Perhaps there is more in the north and south coves? I did hear that there is a nearby 100-meter (?) reef wall for diving but going there by snorkel seems to be daunting. Rating= 4/5


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/100s, f/18, 37mm, ISO 100, +1/3EV
a long view of the the central cove of Alegre Beach Resort, Sogod, Cebu, the Philippines



Canon EOS 350D Digital, 6.00s, f/14, 18mm, ISO 100
the northern cove of Alegre Beach Resort where the Aquasports Centre is located, Sogod, Cebu, the Philippines
phototip: A model who can hold a pose for 6s always help to anchor a long exposure shot.


Technological amenities. Cellphone signals are strong and there are landline phone connections in every room. There is wi-fi in some of the cabanas (we had one in our seaview room) but you can only access cable broadband in the business center. Dream satellite cable is available but channel choices are limited compared to what you can get in the city. We did not mind. We did not splurge hard-earned money for TV. Rating= 3/5

Other activities. The resort has a spa, with “dollar” prices, ranging from $60 to $120. The watersport center is well appointed and scuba classes are available. There is a gaming room, a gym, a tennis court. Bikes are also available for rentals. Rating= 4/5

Service. Hospitality comes naturally fro the easygoing staff. They are all well-mannered, attentive and well-trained. Nobody was over-solicitous and tips are not expected in any of the services they provide. I still think it is acceptable to tip the porters who had to lug our bags between the lobby and the far-off cabanas. Rating= 5/5

Contact info. The resort has a Cebu office (tel number is +6332 2311198). Ask for their current promotions, which are available to locals and occasionally to foreigners as well. More information can be obtained in their website.


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 2.0s, f/20, 47mm, ISO 100, +1/3EV
the central cove of Alegre Beach Resort at dawn, Sogod, Cebu, the Philippines

Pandanon island escapade

An islet heaving with white sand and sitting in the middle of a vast blue Camotes sea is the definition of paradise by most people. Pandanon island used to be a little known secret, tucked safely away from Mactan resorts and its more accessible islands. Pandanon is part of the archipelago of North Bohol and is politically appended to Getafe.



the southern face of the east end of Pandanon island, Getafe, Bohol, the Philippines



a hut at east end of Pandanon island, Getafe, Bohol, the Philippines



a talisay tree at the lagoon of the east end of Pandanon island, Getafe, Bohol, the Philippines



the south lagoon of Pandanon island, Getafe, Bohol, the Philippines


Back in 2002, when I visited it first, Pandanon was not as developed as it is now but no less impressive. Now, it has a centerpiece columnade pavilion (it was used several years back in a national shampoo commercial), a picturesque white chapel for weddings and a concrete port building.



the southern face of the east end of Pandanon island way back in 2002, Getafe, Bohol, the Philippines

Landing fee is about P100/person and no reservations are needed. There always is a hut available for renting. The other amenities like tables, grills and even food can also availed of from an island cooperative and proceeds go to the community. The resort has no overnight facilities though although campouts or home stay arrangements are possible.



a view of the western main island of Pandanon, Getafe, Bohol, the Philippines
flashback

The resort in the east end is impressive. The one-hectare stretch of white sand is carved by several lagoons. Pandanon is more than just a mound of sand. If you venture further to the west following the narrow isthmus, you will be led to the greener partition of the island where a thriving island community of about 350 families and 2,000 people reside. Obviously, island living is linked almost solely to the sea, from fishing and recently, seaweed farming.



boys displaying their catch of fishes at Pandanon, Getafe, Bohol, the Philippines


People in Pandanon are exceedingly friendly. The island alleys are quite constricted and narrow but people don’t mind strangers crisscrossing their yards. I was carrying my camera and everytime I pass by kids always beg “picture”, “picture” without fail. Of course I gave in all the time.


frolicking boys at Pandanon, Getafe, Bohol, the Philippines


Getting there. Rent motorized boats from any point in Mactan, from the northend port of Punta Engano beside the Hilton, through any of the beach resorts in Maribago, Agus or Marigondon, to the southend port of Cordova. Summer weekend prices start at about P3,500 for a 30-person sized boat to about P5,000 if you don’t haggle. Discounts or premiums are common depending on season and boat size.


approaching the north side of Pandanon island, Getafe, Bohol, the Philippines