Chinese delights in Kuta’s Furama

Over the years of travel, I’ve etched into memory the restaurants which never fail me when it comes to taste and experience. When it comes to Cantonese food in Bali, one of my favorites happens to be the most convenient too in terms of location. Just a few minutes from the airport, Furama is typical Chinese: little frills, fast service, and moderately price.


nighttime scene in Furama



my favorite craving: freshly steamed shrimps



bird’s nest soup


Furama’s specialty is seafood, which is obvious with the giant prawn sign on its façade. Amidst the stiff competition in the tourist haven that is Bali, Furama manages to stand out not just to me but to the many patrons that continuously fill the place without fail. It still is true, when choosing a restaurant, go to where people flock. The majority often can’t be all wrong.


highly recommended: steamed fish in soy



mixed vegetables with tofu



Chinese vegetables with garlic


To go: FURAMA is in Jalan Raya Tuban 52B, Kuta, Bali, Indonesia.

Bali classic: Moena Fresh Es Teler

Brain freeze! Somehow, I always fail to stop myself from consuming too much ice too fast that I get the a sudden momentary headache unannounced and irrevocably. But some things are worth the pain.




Take the ice sundae. From Malaysian es kacang to the Philippine halo halo, I love digging into a treat of ice, fresh fruits, milk and sugar when it’s hot and humid outside. They are one of the best ways to beat tropical heat.




In Indonesia, the traditional ice desserts come in many varieties: es campur, es cendol, es tape, es teler and more.




When in Bali, my favored ice dessert haunt actually can be found anywhere. I’m partial to the street variety and nothing fancies me more than sitting on my haunches digging into freshly shaved ice and the sweet condiments, never mind that I got my sundae in the old wet market of Badung in Denpasar or in a village in Sukawati




However a lot of people don’t have my street-trained iron stomach, so what’s a tourist got to do when the heat swelters way too much? Head to the nearest branch of Moena Fresh. This chain offers the traditional Balinese ice delights in a modern setting: clean, hygienic, fast and according to some claims, organic.




In Moena Fresh, my recommendation is definitely the es teler. Thankfully, Moena Fresh stays pretty much with the old formulation: coconut, jackfruit, avocado, ice shavings (chunkier than the Filipino version), condensed milk and sugar.




Obviously, no one messes up with a classic.

Bali's secret eats- the seafood grill at Bualu

When in Bali, do what the Balinese do- eat where they eat. When in the tourist enclave of Nusa Dua: Warung Hal-Me.


The grilled clams offer succulent flesh that bares its straight-from-the-sea freshness.


As the name warung suggests, this is not a restaurant per se but a mere hole-in-the-wall stall by the road, with a few plastic-covered tables and the basic plastic uni-block stools, the most basic of tin utensils and no uniformed waiting staff. Nestled in Jalan Siligita in the village of Bualu, Warung Hal-Me is one of the few night-time only eateries in the area which survived the clearing operations of ambulant booths done before the big climate change confab in late 2007.


Grilling over live coals from wood and coconut husks lends an inviting aromatic atmosphere over the area.


Nowadays the temporary stalls are gone, replaced by a few who fortunately managed to secure permanent spots along the road. Like before, the place is virtually deserted during the day but turns buzzing at night, with local regulars, the knowledgeable domestic tourists and the occasional foreigners.


Grilled shrimps are another favorite.


A cursory look of the eateries actually showcases a veritable tour of the variety of Indonesian cuisine, from East Javanese soto noodles, Balinese Muslim hal delicacies and of course the requisite fresh seafood grill ala Jimbaran. In the latter, Warung Hal-Me delivers. The promise of fresh seafood rings true, not hollow and the tourist trappings of Jimbaran disappears as does the exorbitant prices.


A selection of fishes in season is always in the offer.


So as an advice, when in Nusa Dua, just walk a couple of hundred meters westward from the busy commercial strip of Pantai Mengiat towards the hills. Go where the smoke is.


The clams are sold by weight but are a fraction of the cost at the more crowded Jimbaran.


And for us Catholics who practice meat abstinence in Lent, there could be no simpler yet more delectable delight.

Warung Hal-Me
Jalan Siligita, Bualu, Nusa Dua, Bali
(just a few hundred meters away from the popular Pantai Mengiat strip of expensive restaurants and boutique stores)

Eating out without meat at Big Mao

a Lenten special

Fasting and abstinence are fundamental expressions of penitence for Catholics during Lent. In all Fridays in the entire stretch of 40 days from Ash Wednesday up to the Holy week, the faithful are urged to skip meat (pork, beef, even chicken) in favor of more ascetic fare- fish.


Lo Han Chai noodles- the noodles come in bone dry but rehydrates beautifully in the soy-infused thick sauce; Php 140
Canon EOS 350D, 1/160s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 500, -1/3EV

Giving up meat is easy for me. I abstain not just on Fridays but for the whole duration of Lent. Conveniently for me, during this season, restaurants in the Philippines would typically expand usual their set menus to include more fish and seafood fare.


braised beancurd with squid and 3 kinds of mushroom- mushrooms and tofu are always my favorite all year round’ Php 250
Canon EOS 350D, 1/300s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 500, -2/3EV

In Cebu, a favorite destination for me for price, taste and service is the Big Mao Chinese restaurant which has branches in Ayala Terraces and the Crossroads Banilad. As you can see here in the photographs, I missed nothing much in terms of variety, flavor and experience.


crabmeat and shrimp fooyong- this is a richer and more savory Chinese version of the omelette; Php 180
Canon EOS 350D, 1/80s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 200



bird’s nest soup- there could some chicken bits here so this is not for the meat teetotaler but this is one hearty comfort food for many; Php 95 for a bowl for 3-4 persons
Canon EOS 350D, 1/80s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 320, +1/3EV



lightly coated fish fillet with milky sweet corn sauce- the sweet creaminess is not for everybody but the fish is fried to perfection (brittle crisp outside, succulent soft inside); Php 260
Canon EOS 350D, 1/125s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 500



crispy prawn crackers- this trademark appetizer comes in free
Canon EOS 350D, 1/160s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 500, -1/3EV

Quan Hy makes a mark in Saigon

Every country has a cuisine that stands above all others and for the Vietnamese, considered the best is Hue. In concept, Hue cuisine is classified into two- traditional Hue and Royal Hue. Both are renowned for their demand for culinary precision and esthetics in presentation but the royal version is recognized as rigid and inclusive, banned from commoners and reserved only in the palace.


massive pillars announce the presence of Quan Hy
Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/50s, f/4.5, 33mm, ISO 800, +1/3EV


The art of traditional Hue cooking is brandished with flair in Quan Hy restaurant. Interestingly, the Ho Chi Minh branch only is a late spin-off of the popular Quan Hy in Westminister, California which opened in 1994.


Dark red hardwood and warm yellows create an embracing and comfortable ambience
Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/25s, f/3.5, 18mm, ISO 100


Quan Hy was a recommendation of a friend who was having a social meeting with the owner and some other photographer friends in the restaurant. I had some affairs to conduct so after some introductions, I moved to another table with business associates. This did not mean to say that I did not take the time to study the menu and photograph the gastronomic delights.

From the extensive list, I chose a rice cake dish declared as one of their specialties- the “potstickers”. More like the Chinese jiaozi or Japanese gyoza, the banh it ram is a mélange of mushrooms, pork and shrimps ensconced in a thinly rolled piece of rice dough crimped at the edge. Like most Hue dishes, this came with its specific sauce made of soy and vinegar. The dumplings were delicately balanced over a special rice cake that was extra crunchy, a textural foil to the soft dumpling.


4 banh it ram potstickers - 45,000 (2.6usd)
the banh it ram or stuffed potstickers on crunchy rice cake
Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/80s, f/1.8, 50mm, ISO 200


The next dish was the banh uot thit bo nuong. Rice rolls are definitely Vietnamese and it was my first time to try them stuffed with grilled beef. The rice paper was freshly steamed and enjoyably sticky. Finger-size, the rolls come with a slightly spicy dip which warmed the palate and complemented the provocative taste of beef.


7 banh uot thit bo nuong - 55k (3.2usd)
Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/80s, f/1.8, 50mm, ISO 200, +1/3EV
banh uot thit bo nuong or beef-stuffed rice rolls


As a crustacean fanatic, I did not miss out on the cha gio tom cua which are springrolls stuffed with crab and shrimp. They came in tiny 1 ½ inch squares which bulged with plump and juicy crabmeat. Accompanied with fresh julienne slices of cabbage, carrots and aromatic leaves, the springrolls came with a mouth-watering fish sauce spiked with hot chili. Hands down, this became my favorite of all the dishes I had.


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/125s, f/1.8, 50mm, ISO 200, +1/3EV


A distinguishing feature of Hue cuisine is the visuals. The flourish of colors could be vivid, or as in the case of the salad that we had, discreet. More like what the Japanese often do, the greens are tempered with warm browns or yellows and there is always a touch of red or orange. But past the color palette, the goi hen is a clear Southeast Asian inspiration- fresh manila clams, bean sprouts, peanuts, minty leaves over crunchy round rice crackers.


goi hen, a clam salad with mixed vegetables, peanuts and crunchy rice paper
Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/60s, f/1.8, 50mm, ISO 200, +1/3EV


The final dish was the omnipresent bun nuoc noodle soup. Not surprisingly, again, I picked the version with crab and shrimps. Simmering hot, the noodle soup combined the hearty umami flavor of seafood meat and sultrily glutinous stickiness of starchy rice. I am no noodle follower, but the shellfishes were divine.


37 banh canh tom cua - 50k (2.9usd)
banh canh tom cua, a white glue noodle soup with crab meat and shrimp
Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/100s, f/1.8, 50mm, ISO 800


True to its name – Quan Hy means “happiness” – the restaurant delivers the beauty, aroma and taste that one can only expect of a cuisine associated with Hue.

Quan Hy Restaurant, 15-17-19 Ton That Thiep, Ward Ben Nghe, Distric 1, Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam, tel +848 39141552, www.quanhyrestaurant.com

it’s Durian time!

I could not exactly place when I got to be a durian addict. I only got to taste this “king of fruits” when I was already off college and I remembered the first one I had was not really that sweet. The odor did not turn me off. I never am one with a weak stomach anyway. Slowly and incontrovertibly though, morsel by morsel, over several years in my trips around the country and abroad, I tasted the real delectable samples. I was hooked and there is no turning back. I just need to have my fix of the creamy luscious sweet buttery goodness of the durian wherever I am and whenever I can, be it at a bar in Zamboanga, in a night stall in Saigon, or at a mall in Bali.

Before I went to Davao last week, I know I would be in durian heaven. Like a soldier with a war plan, I mapped out what I needed to do. Simple: just try everything durian.


Fri 1PM, durian pie and durian float at Sagay, Casa Leticia

We just arrived by plane from Cebu and I was insistent. We needed to go to Sagay, the banner restaurant of the quaint boutique hotel Casa Leticia. I do not have any particularly strong feelings, positive or negative, for Ilonggo cuisine which was what Sagay is all about but the buzz is that it has the best durian pie in Davao. Lunch was consumed fast as we were famished. But the pie I had to savor slowly. The crust was simple, almost plain to the palate and on the soft side, which set contrastingly the plump and firm durian filling. I was treated with large slivers of real durian which were obviously fresh, delightfully creamy and unforgettably rich. I could not get enough.


Canon EOS 5D Digital, 1/125s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 1600
the durian pie of Sagay (Ilonggo) restaurant, Casa Leticia, Davao City, the Philippines

According to the waiter, the owners of the Casa Leticia hotel have their own durian plantation so fresh fruits never are a concern and the setup pays. This durian pie has a following and count me as a new fan.

For extra measure, I even tried another delicacy, the durian float. Frozen cold, sensibly sweet, it was the denouement to the pie climax.


Canon EOS 5D Digital, 1/100s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 1600
the durian float of Sagay (Ilonggo) restaurant, Casa Leticia, Davao City, the Philippines


Sagay, Casa Leticia, J Camus St Davao City 8000, tel +6382 2240501


Fri 8PM, durian cake at Jack’s Ridge

Jack’s Ridge is an institution in Davao. It sports a spectacular mountain view that overlooks the Davao cityscape and it is best enjoyed at night. With ambience provided by the flickering lights of metropolitan Davao, food almost became secondary. Not the durian cake though. We ordered several slices and I ended up eating most of them as always. Between the beds of light chiffon were thick layers of durian-rich paste. Highly recommended.


Canon EOS 5D Digital, 1/160s, f/1.8, 50mm, ISO 1600, -1/3EV
the durian cake of Jack’s Ridge, Davao City, the Philippines


Jack’s Ridge Resort and Restaurant, Shrine Hills, Matina, Davao City 8000, tel +6382 2978830, www.jacksridgedavao.com


Sat 10PM, durian pie, again, at Sagay, Casa Leticia

I told you I am a convert. I figured we might run out of time the next day with our flight scheduled late in the afternoon. We decided not to risk missing out on the delicacy so we passed by Casa Leticia again to get two whole pies (Php 450 each). Handcarrying the boxes was a most welcomed chore.


Canon EOS 5D Digital, 1/125s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 1600
the durian pie of Sagay (Ilonggo) restaurant, Casa Leticia, Davao City, the Philippines


Sun 1PM, durian at the Magsaysay Park

Of course, I need to have the real thing. One of the best places to have the fruit is Magsaysay Park. The row of fruits stalls leaves you spoiled for choice. There are fruits galore, from pomelos to mangosteens and taking more space than any other is not to my surprise, the durian. My friend was rattling off the different varieties. The names were difficult to remember but I caught “basketball” which is said to be quite creamy. For a few minutes, we settled by the roadside, huddling, eating, and there was little between me and durian heaven.


Canon EOS 5D Digital, 1/80s, f/4.0, 17mm, ISO 640, +1.0EV
loads of durian, pomelo and mangosteens on display, Magsaysay Park, Davao City, the Philippines



Canon EOS 5D Digital, 1/200s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 125
attacking the durian, Magsaysay Park, Davao City, the Philippines


Sun 2PM, durian cake at the Waterfront Insular Hotel

With time to spare, we decided to have mid-afternoon desserts at the swanky Waterfront Insular Hotel. Although I just had my real durian fix, I saw another version of the durian cake. No harm in trying it. Yes, it was creamy. Yes, it was sugary. Too bad, the cake was a sanitized middle-of-the-road concoction. Non-durian lovers might even like it for the flavor is light. Not me. I want my durian to come out strong. I was looking for any durian paste or fruit chunks so I was disappointed.


Canon EOS 5D Digital, 1/200s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 500, -2/3EV
the durian cake of Davao Waterfront Insular Hotel, Davao City, the Philippines


Waterfront Insular Hotel Davao, Lanang, Davao City 8000, tel +6382 2332881


Sun 3PM, durian at the Buhangin Fruit Stand

Before checking in the airport, we could not bid the city of Davao without buying the obligatory fruit pasalubong. Pomelos became the ready choice. Wistfully, I was eyeing the bound durian hanging at the Buhangin fruit stand but alas, the malodorous fruits are now taboo inside the plane cargo. Some other time and way then.


Canon EOS 5D Digital, 1/400s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 1600, +1/3EV
durian fruits on display at the Buhangin fruit stand, Davao City, the Philippines


Besides, we still have our two boxes of the durian pie. It’s all good.

enjoying fine Filipino cuisine in Pino

I fidgeted with the menu and took some time to decide. Indecision, for me, can either be good or bad but my smile betrayed what I thought. The meñu of Pino, Cebu’s relatively new restaurant offering fine Filipino cuisine, was not thick but the choices were tempting and were tearing me apart. It was the day after Christmas and I was treating two good friends and I did not want the food to disappoint. Aside from yearning for authentic Filipino comfort food, the overriding reason why I chose Pino – this was my second visit in three months – I also wanted to entertain. Pino fits the bill. It has luxurious ambiance, attentive staff, spacious seating and grand style (their comfort rooms are fast becoming an attraction!). The prices leaned on the expensive side but then, there are far more restaurants pricier than Pino in the city and with lesser gustatorial substance.


Canon EOS 350D, 1/400s, f/1.8, 50mm, ISO 400, -1/3EV


Our friends easily settled with and gladly took Cacing from our care and played with her, leaving me and my wife free. A preciously active 10-month old can be too much so we welcomed the freedom. Conversations are best cultured over familiar appetizers and we had a great start. The fiesta salad (P140) was an appetizing nibble being unmistakably Filipino with salted duck eggs, tomatoes, onions and the ever mouth-watering duo of green mangoes and bagoong shrimp paste.


Canon EOS 350D, 1/125s, f/3.5, 50mm, ISO 400, +2/3EV


The clean and simple presentation was carried on to the other appetizer. A perfect counterpoint to the acidic and salty bite of the salad, the baked scallops (P198) came swathed in garlic butter and cheese and were sumptuously rich.


Canon EOS 350D, 1/100s, f/3.5, 50mm, ISO 400, +2/3EV


My favorite starter was the pritos (P155) which literally means “fried” in Spanish. The deep-fried slices of squid and shrimp came generously thick, juicily fresh and succulently crisp.


Canon EOS 350D, 1/100s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 400, -1/3EV


For vegetables, the easy choice was the unassuming pritong gulay (P85). As with the other dishes, Pino kept it simple. The platter of kangkong, okra and eggplant was a play of both crispness and juiciness. Batter came judiciously light.


Canon EOS 350D, 1/60s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 400, -1/3EV


Given the variety and number of our hors d'oeuvres, we took our time with the main dishes. Straying from the old Filipino-style theme, we ordered sizzling peppered pork bits in brandy sauce (P210). This was hit with our friends but the liquor-laden sauce was too sharp tart for my taste.


Canon EOS 350D, 1/60s, f/2.8, 50mm, ISO 400, -1/3EV


The gambas ajillo y a calamari (P145) was a better selection although the Spanish-style shrimp and squid was a bit too oily for me. However, the garlic flavor was profuse and to my liking.


Canon EOS 350D, 1/50s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 400, -1/3EV


The delightful surprise was the Cebuano spiced native chicken (P240). The serving came with slices of seared saba banana which provided touches of yellow and sweetness to the chili and salty expectations of the spices. The combination of colors, scents and textures were blended seamlessly in this dish.


Canon EOS 350D, 1/200s, f/2.8, 50mm, ISO 400, -1/3EV


If there was one thing missing, it was the humba. I was looking forward to ordering this archetypal Visayan centerpiece but alas, this was the day after Christmas, and the choice pork cuts unfortunately had run out.

When eating outside, I always order standard steamed rice as I want the viands to take center stage and fancy rice dishes could distract. This time though, we ordered the steamed bamboo rice (P 185) and not only did it come in a beautiful presentation – it was served inside a bamboo shell – its subtle flavor became a delectable platform for the strong flavors of the rest of the dishes. This is highly recommended.


Canon EOS 350D, 1/125s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 400, -1/3EV


Obviously, we splurged too much but we still capped our luncheon with native desserts. I tried to order biko but again, I was disappointed that they did not carry it that day. Instead, we turned to the classical turon at sorbetes (P120) which is saba plantain rolled and deep-fried in a rice flour wrap. Served hot, it went finely with the vanilla ice cream.


Canon EOS 350D, 1/125s, f/1.8, 50mm, ISO 100, -1/3EV


To honor the season, we added the misa de gallo Tagalog classic puto bumbong (P90). It had to be freshly cooked so we had to wait 15 minutes. Unlike the Visayan budbud, a sweet and gingery steamed glutinous rice concoction, this is a bit trickier for the freshly milled pirurutong wild rice and galapong sticky rice have to be stuffed in thin bamboo poles and steamed. The purple rolls are then sprinkled with muscovado brown sugar, toasted sesame seeds and grated fresh coconut. That it tastes just like what you get in the streets outside the church after the early morning Christmas mass is meant not as denigration but an apt compliment.


Canon EOS 350D, 1/80s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 400, +1/3EV


Filipino classics need not be a gem hidden at home. In Pino, nostalgia is fleshed out real.

Pino! Filipino Cuisine
Wilson St., Lahug, Cebu City
tel. +6332 2320939, 2313101

Vanille part trois

So we found ourselves in Vanille once more last Sunday. I wanted to check out what is new. It’s a lame excuse, but any will do so that I can visit my favorite dessert haunt in Cebu. Here are a few more pastries that we’ve tried.

Cerise. Structured piles of mousse and sponge cakes are a trademark of Vanille. This one promises chocolate mousse with cherries but somehow I was expecting some bits or the definitive flavor of cherry but both escaped me. It was tart but indistinct. Perhaps I was inattentive? There were pieces of cherry on top of the sweetened vanilla-flavored whipped Chantilly cream so the concoction can still lay a claim to its name. Still, the raised sponge cake was as always, very light and delectable and the mousse was rich and not overly sweet.
price= P80


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/400s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 800


Tarte aux pommes. Non-francophiles, don’t be scared, the name is just French for apple tart. I am a fan of apple tarts and pies. I crave them. I look for them. The Vanille version was not a disappointment. The crust is just the right thinness (I don’t like thick crust in pies) and flakiness. The apples were firm, juicy, tart and sweet, with the usual hint of cinnamon and vanilla. That said, the price of 120 pesos was a bit expensive when compared to versions of other pastry shops in Cebu. If there is a plus, it would be the presentation. The topping of razor-thin apple slivers which were slightly browned at the edges, looks quite fetching.
price= P120


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/125s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 800


French macarons in passionfruit. I’m already a fan of Vanille’s French macarons . I love the juxtaposition of the saccharine crunchiness of meringue and the creaminess of the ganache. The passionfruit version is a winner. At first bite, the taste is subtle but in due time, the sharp sourness attacks. When it comes to tropical fruits, sometimes, I want them to be in-your-face and non apologetic. True to its name, passionfruit is an ardent explosion in the palate.
price= P25 each


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/400s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 800, -1/3EV



Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/160s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 800, -1/3EV


Concerto. The finger-like log of hazelnut dacquoise reminds me a lot of Isabelia (see my first blog on Vanille). The biscuit-like base of meringue is nutty and I always like my dessert to have some crunch. The hazelnut bits contrasted delicately both in flavor and in texture with mousse of creamy Belgian chocolate. This is an uplifting aria of the senses.


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/100s, f/5.6, 53mm, ISO 800


Chocolat. What is a pastry shop without a chocolate cake? Vanille’s version is divine and could be its trademark, what with its elaborate construction. Billed a la maison, the layers of chocolate cake and chocolate mousse are shaped in a spherical half-globe. The cake has just the hint of bitterness which tempers the inherent sweetness of sugar. The clincher is the icing fully covering the dome. Dark and gooey, it stretches like marshmallows, slices like meringue and melts like fudge in the mouth. Too bad that this delicacy cannot be scaled up structurally as the big cake is flat and round and the icing is reduced to a thin upper crust. I’d take the personal mini anytime.


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/640s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 800, -1/3EV



Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/100s, f/5.6, 53mm, ISO 800


Vanille Cafe and Patisserie
The Terraces, 2nd level
Cebu Ayala Mall
Cebu City, the Philippines

This is the 3rd Vanille review after part 1 and part 2.