Sumbawa: sprinting through volcanoes and dowry parades

I examined the map and squinted. "We can do Lombok to Sumbawa Besar by car in one day, you say?" My tone was incredulous but my friends avered that, yes, it can be done. Their math seemed to check out: 2 hours from Mataram to Labuhan Lombok, plus 2 hours ferry crossing, then 2 hours to Sumbawa Besar. Doubled the 6 hours for the trip way back and added some allowance and begrudgingly, I admitted that on paper it can be done.

The day did not start as early as we would have wished. There was some miscommunication and our transportation pickup from Teluk Kodek in Northwest Lombok was late. Another delay by our car rental at Mataram meant we only were able to leave the capital at 9AM.

Fortunately, roads in Lombok already are fully paved. East Lombok hiways are still mostly narrow but there were no potholes which were aplenty way back in the early 90s. However, it already was 11:30 when we turned by the circular bay of Labuhan Lombok, not 11AM as we would have desired. To our consternation, we missed the ferry by 5 minutes at the port of Kayangan. Ferry turnover was unexpected slow and it was not until 12 noon that we were able to load the car inside the ferry.

In the map, Selat Alas, or the Alas Strait in English, looks quite narrow but the ferry is not exactly the fastest moving boat either. We entered the bay of West Sumbawa in a little more than an hour but we had to wait for an empty berth at the port of Poto Tano so it wasn’t until 1:30 that we finally were on dry land again.


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/100s, f/5.0, 150mm, ISO 100
one of several small islands across Poto Tano, West Sumbawa, Sumbawa Island, Nusa Tenggara Barat, Indonesia


Nothing touristy is in Sumbawa save for perhaps the pristine world-class surf breaks in the regencies of Bima and Dompu which only the most avid surfers seek and the volcano park of Tambora.

Tambora, if you don’t know, is the volcano which produced the most violent explosion in modern history when in 1815, expelling enough ash into the atmosphere that produce a "year without a summer" in North America and Europe, resulting to the worst famine of the 19th century and killing >70,000 people.


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/3200s, f/4.0, 75mm, ISO 100
a chain of small islands around Poto Tano, West Sumbawa, Sumbawa Island, Nusa Tenggara Barat, Indonesia


The fantastic eruption consequently wiped away the entire vegetation of Sumbawa which still is bald and scorched to this day. The entire island is as dry as you can get. The rugged sandy terrain of East Lombok is nothing compared to the arid desert-like earth of Sumbawa peninsula. This entire 15,500 sq km island, one of Indonesia’s largest stretching from West Sumbawa through Sumbawa Besar and Dompu in the central region up to Bima in the east, is notorious for being a brown dust bowl during hot season – and August is summer.


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/1600s, f/5.0, 160mm, ISO 100
typical topography of Sumbawa during summertime, Poto Tano, West Sumbawa, Sumbawa Island, Nusa Tenggara Barat, Indonesia

Along the coast, there were hardly any major thickets of green forest. The highways are curiously lined by kapok and other trees that are strange-looking to me, leafless and almost lifeless. I remember that this is eastern part of Indonesia where flora and fauna are no longer Asian but Australian in character. (Read more on the famous Wallace_line.)


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/1000s, f/5.6, 55mm, ISO 400
leafless trees are a feature in Sumbawa Besar, Sumbawa Island, Nusa Tenggara Barat, Indonesia


Time went fast. We tried to cover the some 80km distance from Poto Tano to Sumbawa Besar but the best we could do was 2.5 hours, including a pit stop at Utan, West Sumbawa, for a quick lunch and a tire change.

By 4PM, we already were in quandary. We just arrived in Sumbawa Besar and by my estimation, we still are some 100km away from Kwangko, the nearest seaweed farm eastward. We pushed our luck. Some 30 minutes of driving could only get us as far as Moyo. It was 4:30PM. Even if we could get to Kwangko in an 1.5 hours, it would already be too dark to see any seaweed and too dangerous to get into any boat.

Having traveled 7.5 hours, we called off the trip and turned back. One thing became obvious, a Lombok-Dompu-Lombok road trip cannot be done in 15 hours. At least 18 hours is needed. The best itinerary to visit the seaweed farms in Sumbawa Besar and Dompu was the one we originally made: fly to Bima and work our way westward through Dompu and then Sumbawa Besar. However, Bima, being not a popular destination in Nusa Tenggara Barat (West Central Islands) gives to fickle flight schedules and the bookings we had the previous week were canceled arbitrarily.

Failure can easily turn to frustration but we merely shrugged it off. No, we laughed it off. Sure we grossly underestimated the distance but the road trip was fun. Sumbawa, the mercilessly hot land, is not like any Indonesian island I have visited and curiosity was sated. Too bad that in our vain drive to get to our destination we could not make more stops.

The sights in Sumbawa were unique. In Sumbawa Besar alone, I witnessed not one but two dowry parades, an age-old Muslim practice that is disappearing elsewhere in secular Indonesia. Apparently in Sumbawa, dowry parades are still the norm. They are given by the groom to the bride’s family in recognition for the loss of a daughter, as payment for the wedding cost, or as giveaway property to the new couple. The motorcades I saw featured curious bulky material properties being brandished atop pickup and trucks. I saw mattresses, cavans of food, traditional offerings of bamboo and sugar cane and large pieces of furniture like the cabinet below. Obviously, proud are the groom’s families who could afford to display these luxurious gifts.


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/800s, f/1.8, 50mm, ISO 100, +4/3 EV
a dowry caravan in Sumbawa Besar, Sumbawa Island, Nusa Tenggara Barat, Indonesia


Our trip back to Lombok was no less animated. Company became more enjoyable. Perhaps fun can be the domain of the frustrated. We were on the road at Utan when the sky turned red on us. Unfortunately, while we were traveling west, Sumbawa’s rugged terrain was blocking the sun. Nevertheless, a missing sun would not preclude me from enjoying the golden hour. The sky was a remarkable hue of pink – Sumbawa is definitely not industrial – so pollution was entirely absent. I took a few shots of rustic Utan, nothing fancy really, just some cows lazing by and women going home.



Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/125s, f/5.6, 300mm, ISO 400
a rural scene during sundown at Utan, Sumbawa Besar, Sumbawa Island, Nusa Tenggara Barat, Indonesia


When we got turned around a bay in the district of Alas, we came upon the majestic silhouette of Rinjani, Indonesia’s highest mountain outside of Irian Jaya. When all things go sour, somehow, nature’s sublime beauty could still manage to warm the weary soul, or in my case, entertain me and my lens.


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 8.00s, f/16, 55mm, ISO 100, +1EV
the silhouette of Mt. Rinjani, soaring over Alas, Sumbawa Besar, Sumbawa Island, Nusa Tenggara Barat, Indonesia

The way back to Mataram was a blur. Again, we missed the boat back to Lombok by minutes. Story of our lives! Having had 30 minutes to burn, we had dinner at a local eatery by the Poto Tano harbor. By 8PM, we got into the ferry and nabbed some much needed nap. We got off at Labuhan Kayangan at 9:30PM. Two hours later, we arrived in our hotel in Senggigi, northwest of Mataram.


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/100s, f/1.8, 50mm, ISO 1600, +1/3EV
my dinner of fried shrimps in Poto Tano, West Sumbawa, Sumbawa Island, Indonesia


After 15 hours on the road, alertness turned to exhaustion. I just realized that we were able to skim through five of the seven regencies of Nusa Tenggara Barat province in one day: Lombok Barat, Lombok Tengah, Lombok Timur, Sumbawa Barat and Sumbawa Besar. It is not something that I would have the time to do again but certainly, sometime soon, I hope to visit Bima and Dompu. And beyond too.

48 hours in Diego Suarez, Madagascar (Day 2)

continued from Day 1

Montagne d’Ambre

We woke up early at The Nature Lodge, excited about our itinerary that morning, the Amber Mountain, or as they say it there, the Parc Montagne d’Ambre. I did my research and found out that it is the most visited destination in North Madagascar being one of the most biologically diverse places in the country. We knew we would be venturing inside a jungle so we dressed for it, in sneakers ready to trudge on muck, in jeans to fend off mosquitoes or whatever insect that might take a liking for human flesh and with caps on to keep us somewhat dry. Tropical forests are hot, humid and wet.

The road was unpaved, jagged and muddy but our experienced driver (Eric, cel +261 331292765, about $30-50/day in 2005) was adept in maneuvering his old Citroen over mud, boulders and gigantic tree roots. In 30 minutes, by about 8AM, we already found ourselves at a small building fronting the Park. Imagine our chagrin when the park secretary informed us that we could not visit the park without a guide and that all guides were already bookedZ. Apparently we should have made advance arrangements as there are only a few guides. We asked our driver to help us cajole and implore the staff in finding us a guide. For what seemed like an hour we waited – okay, it was just 15 minutes really but we were scared white – until the secretary came back with her brother Angeluc. He volunteered to be our guide. So off we went.

Fantastic luck. Razafimanantsoa Angeluc (family name comes first in Malagasy) had an encyclopedic knowledge of the place, born from someone who grew up in the area. He was loquacious and told us that after high school he went to Tana and worked as a research assistant in a biology lab in a university. I think he studied there too for awhile. He was now working as a Tana-based guide specializing on wildlife tours in any point in Madagascar. He mentioned gigs with international photographers and videographers. Maybe so. His English was fluent and most of all, he knew the scientific names of most plants, animals and insects in the forest reserve. Taking down notes of his commentaries was difficult because he had a lot to say!

The national park was created in 1958 and covers 18,200 hectares of prominent volcanic massif. The billboard at the entrance proclaims that it has 75 different species of birds, 25 species of mammals, and 59 species of reptiles. The latter group includes frogs, geckoes, chameleons and snakes. Of the seven lemur species in the park, the most notable are the crowned lemur and Sanford's brown lemur. I did not have any telephoto lens then so my lemur pictures were miserable.

Personally, I was dying to see the chameleons. Imagine a lizard which could change colors in response to light, heat, and other stimuli! The island is home to 54 or two-thirds of all the world's chameleon species.


Canon EOS 350D, 0.002s, f/5.6, 45mm, ISO 100
a chameleon in the Amber Mountain Park, Diego Suarez (Antsiranana), Madagascar, East Africa


Chameleons range in size from the giant Chamaeleo oustaleti which measures up to 68 cm (27 inches) long to the diminutive Brookesia minima which reaches only 3 cm (1.3 inches). Chameleons are Old World lizards that dwell in trees, except for the stump-tailed chameleon, Brookesia, which lives mainly on the forest floor. We only saw 4 but that's enough for me.


phototip: Be quick. Some creatures don’t hold their pose.
Canon EOS 350D, 0.05s, f/5.6, 52mm, ISO 100
a chameleon in the Amber Mountain Park, Diego Suarez (Antsiranana), Madagascar, East Africa


The park has several water falls and crater lakes and being a true rainforest, it is a botanist’s dream. It boasts of roughly 20km of maintained tracks allowing close contact with the lush wildlife.


phototip: Underexpose a sunrise shot to get silhouettes.
Canon EOS 350D, 0.013s, f/5.6, 27mm, ISO 100
Cascade Antamboka, the Amber Mountain Park, Diego Suarez (Antsiranana), Madagascar, East Africa

On our way out of the forest, there was one final treat. While the car was speeding, Angeluc suddenly asked the driver to stop and backtrack. He saw something on the track – the chameleon below. Now, those are eagle eyes he has. It was only 10cm long!


phototip: Underexpose a sunrise shot to get silhouettes.
Canon EOS 350D, 0.002s, f/5.6, 55mm, ISO 200
a Brookesia chameleon in the Amber Mountain Park, Diego Suarez (Antsiranana), Madagascar, East Africa


City Tour

Of course, what is a trip to Diego Suarez without having a city tour? We had the taxi drop us at Rue Colbert, the main thoroughfare. From the map, we could tell that the city center is small enough to be explored on foot.

Historically, Madagascar was a notorious pirate's lair in the age of colonialism, when merchant ships in the Indian Ocean, the Red Sea and the Persian Gulf were easy prey. Legend says that in the late 1700s, a strange community named Libertalia settled in Diego Suarez, now Antsiranana.


Canon EOS 350D, 0.005s, f/11, 41mm, ISO 100
a mosque the Cathedral, Diego Suarez (Antsiranana), Madagascar, East Africa


The name Diego Suarez harbor was derived from Diego Diaz, who came to Madagascar in 1500 and a sailor, Fernando Suarez who visited in 1506. The story and the legend say that:"Towards the end of the 17th century, a strange community settled in the Bay area and gave birth to the Libertalia Republic. Characters that were closely related to buccaneering: a French pirate named Misson, and a Roman priest, Angelo Caraccioli. They were both inspired by a utopian philosophy based on the freedom of men, religion and races. Libertalia thrived for a few years until the Malagasy, aroused by their chiefs that hardly understood this threat to their authority, attacked Libertalia by surprise and destroyed it".


Canon EOS 350D , 0.008s, f/8, 40mm, ISO 100
a wall mural in Diego Suarez (Antsiranana), Madagascar, East Africa


As a developing nation, Madagascar cannot spend much for infrastructure but surprisingly, Diego Suarez has roads that are well-paved, clean and free from potholes probably because there are not a lot of cars. It helps that the city does not get a lot of heavy truck traffic. To add to its picturesque look, almost all of the taxicabs and cars on the street were 1950-70s cars, either Renault or Citroen, that are still in surprisingly good running condition.


Canon EOS 350D, 0.008s, f/8, 38mm, ISO 100
Rue d' Colbert, Diego Suarez (Antsiranana), Madagascar

Within just a 200 meter radius are two mosques, a Hindu temple and a Christian Cathedral. The latter was closed when we visited it early in the afternoon but it looks Catholic. It is a multicultural society.


Canon EOS 350D, 0.002s, f/5.6, 18mm, ISO 100
a Cathedral in Diego Suarez (Antsiranana), Madagascar, East Africa


Diego Suarez retains the charm of an old French colonial city, having been under French rule from 1896 to 1960. A lot of colonial buildings still stand, replete with ionic columns and balustrades, mostly crumbling and flaking but no less elegant. Locals, expats and tourists alike seem to take lounging and promenading to a habit. Had we stayed in town any longer, we probably would have found ourselves watch time pass by in any of its Arabic tea parlors, French cafes or Italian bakeshops. But we needed to go to the airport and catch a flight.

Looking back, I want to think that little has changed today in Diego. Time has been kind to it for the longest time and maybe it still is.


Canon EOS 350D, 0.002s, f/5.6, 25mm, ISO 100
awning at La Rosticceria where we had lunch, Rue Colbert, Diego Suarez (Antsiranana), Madagascar, East Africa

48 hours in Diego Suarez, Madagascar (Day 1)

I have done more than a fair share of traveling, thanks to my day job. If you asked me, the most exotic country I have visited so far has to be Madagascar. It is that large island east of Africa renowned for a flora and fauna unique from the rest of the world. Think of lemurs, baobabs and chameleons. Madagascar is the fourth largest island in the world but it is pretty much isolated from Africa. Its racial stock is not solely black and is mixed with Indonesian and Polynesian. No wonder too that it has a superstitious culture that could rival Haiti’s voodoo religion.


phototip: Look for patterns that are visually pleasing.
Canon PowerShot S40, 0.067s, f/8, 21.3mm
Ravanala madagascariensis, a palm originally from Madagascar now distributed worldwide by horticulturists, shot in Nusa Dua, Bali, Indonesia


getting there
I am based in the Philippines and back in November 2005, the time of my visit, it was difficult getting to Madagascar. There were no direct flights yet from Asia. I had to buy a Nairobi (Kenya) to Antananarivo ticket which I picked up at Dar es Salaam, Tanzania, my first stop of my Africa trip. Nowadays, it is easier as Air Malagasy, in a code share agreement with Thai Airways, already flies between Bangkok and Tana, thanks I hear to the thriving gem trade between the two countries. There are also connections with Johannesburg, Mauritius and of course Paris as Madagascar was a former French colony. Once you are in the capital city of Antananarivo, you can easily get a plane ticket to any destination in the country.

language
Malagasy is the national language. Contrary to rumors, it has no semblance to Bahasa Indonesia. I would find out later that Malagasy is only specifically related to the Maanyan languange so the Indonesian I know gets me nowhere. French is still commonly spoken but English is not.


phototip: Before checking into your flight, check the direction of the plane against the map. If you could, get the window seat favorable to the area you want.
Camera: Canon EOS 350D Digital, 0.001s, f/9, 55mm, ISO 100
aerial view of Western Madagascar, East Africa


ariary
The official currency is the Malagasy ariary which was introduced in 2005 to replace the Malagasy franc. The euro is also accepted in most hotels and touristy joints but not the US dollar. Foreign exchange is strictly enforced and limited only in banks. There are some bank counters in the airport so err on the side of safety and change more than what you may need. You don’t want to lose time and queue inside a bank if you run out of ariary.

Tana
The capital Antananarivo, Tana for short, is smacked in the high plateau at the center of the island, about a thousand meter in elevation. It is a bit cold there. I was in the capital for only half a day. My business destination was the Northern regional center of Antsiranana, still popularly called Diego Suarez, which to my delight, offers a distilled rawness of unspoilt beauty that I cxpect from Madagascar.

Upon arriving in Diego Suarez, hire a taxicab. Mer D’Emeraude, or in English, the Emerald Bay, beckons and it is worthwhile first port of call. It is about 20km from the city. The roads may be rough at times but the bay vistas are spectacular.

baobab
Right at the roadside, you will be treated by baobabs. These are strange-looking trees that look upturned by a divine whim of some sort. Its branches look more like roots. Bizarre but beautiful. Looking rather dead, these trees are generally leafless most of the time. Baobabs make me think of trees in illustrated storybooks like The Little Prince. But that is just me. Of the 8 species of baobabs (genus Adansonia), six are found ONLY in Madagascar, with one species endemic to Africa (Adansonia digitata) and one to Australia (Adansonia gibbosa ex. Adansonia gregori). Diego Suarez is quite known to have clusters of these deciduous trees appropriately named “baobab forests”. So when you see any, ask your driver to pull over. The pictures will be worth the stop.


phototip: Black and white works in removing distracting elements and isolating dramatic visuals.
Canon EOS 350D Digital, 0.005s, f/10, 55mm, ISO 100
the Adansonia perrieri or Perrier's Baobab in the French Mountain, Antsiranana (Diego Suarez), Madagascar, East Africa


Emerald Bay
The Bay of Antsiranana is one of largest and most breathtakingly beautiful lagoons in the world. Shaped like a four-petalled flower with a narrow mouth at its eastern tip, it opens into the Indian Ocean. One of the component bays is the Emerald Sea which is famous for its colors of green and blue, thanks to the fine white sand and relatively shallow coast. This island hill called the Sugar Loaf is its fabulous landmark which one can easily photograph by the roadside when approaching the Emerald Sea.

Canon EOS 350D, 0.003s, f/10, 55mm, ISO 100
the Sugar Loaf island taken from a hill by the road leading to Ramena Beach, Diego Suarez, Madagascar


Ramena Beach
There should be several beaches in Emerald Bay, all pristine, wide and most of all EMPTY! Recommended to us was Ramena Beach.

Emerald Bay is just one of 3 enclosed bays in Diego Suarez. It is round shaped, about 20 km in perimeter, shallow in the first few meters- hence the “emerald” appellation and just moderately deep at the center to change the color to turquoise and not blue black. The water all around you are in dazzling hues of greens and blues. No overdelopment. No spas. Just some bed and breakfast cottages and with a few expatriate-owned huts. There were several choices of beach resorts like Cinq Trop Pres and La Casa but a friend picked Hotel Palm Beach for us. It is small, spartan and doubles as a backpacker lodge- perfect place to dump our bags and be assured of a hearty lunch.


Canon EOS 350D, 0.005s, f/10, 39mm, ISO 100
at the Ramena beach at Mer D’Emeraude, Diego Suarez (Antsiranana), Northeast Madagascar, East Africa


I asked around and found out that public buses are scarce except during Sunday when trips become regular. The endless stretch of white sand is a dream. The scientist in me automatically calculated the fineness of the sand in the beach. Goodness, it must have been like 40 to 60 mesh. And it is white. In the morning that we were there, I chose to skip taking a dip and just practiced with my Rebel camera which was new at that time. Lighting was perfect and the people could not be any more generous with their smiles.


phototip: Smile and be friendly. Kids reciprocate always.
Canon EOS 350D, 0.005s, f/10, 52mm, ISO 100
at the Ramena beach at Mer D’Emeraude, Diego Suarez (Antsiranana), Northeast Madagascar, East Africa


religion
About 45% of the Malagasy are Christians, evenly split into 50 Roman Catholics and Protestants. They constitute the majority of the people living in the capital, in the central highlands of Antananarivo. Asian features are most predominant there too and majority look like Indonesians. However, along the coastal, people are clearly of African origin and are dark-skinned with a mix of Arabic, Pakistani and Comorian blood. They are mostly Muslims. Regardless of faith, majority of them still follow the traditional beliefs of the cult of the dead. Life is regularly guided by various fady taboos.

Diego Suarez is largely Muslim and local mosques provide plenty of local color photo ops. There’s one quantly small mosque right by the beach of Ramena. Don’t miss it.


phototip: Simplify the composition to isolate the bright colors amidst plain white walls.
Canon EOS 350D, 0.013s, f/10, 40mm, ISO 100
the Mosque Du Nord, Ramena Beach, Diego Suarez (Antsiranana), Madagascar


Joffreville
In the afternoon, headoff for the mountains. There is a popular national park 30 kilometers south of Diego Suarez- the Montagne d’Ambre or Amber Mountain which has a peak elevation of about 1400 meters. Climate there is cool, quite different from the heat in the parched terrain around the bay. During the French occupation, the town of Joffre was the holiday place of North Madagascar. when the French left, most of the hotels already closed shop. Recently, Joffreville is slowly rebuilding itself as a premier eco-destination.

Joffreville is small. Neglect has taken a toll on the buildings that dot around the town center. The village store appropriately named The Village Store has scant amenities and merchandise. Whatever produce grown and harvested in the village are otherwise displayed in unattended makeshift street stands. There must only be a few hundred people in the village as we did not see a lot of houses along the road. We also only met a few buses plying the route and most places must be traversed mostly by foot.


Canon EOS 350D, 0.006s , f/8, 18mm, ISO 100
town center of Joffreville, Diego Suarez (Antsiranana), Madagascar


It was nearing sundown but we still decided to locate the Monastere St Jean-Baptiste. We courteously befriended an old Belgian nun who unfortunately does not speak much English. As I remembered it, the monastery had about 5 nuns at that time, mostly of European descent, and one old priest. The sisters also happen to be Benedictine and I remembered this as I went to school run by OSB nuns (Order of St. Benedict). She mentioned too that the monastery is a haven for all people, even to local refugees during civil and military turmoil.

The grounds are well kept and bear a severe simplicity. The gardens do offer a jaw-dropping promontory that gives an almost 270 degree arc of the Emerald Bay, the Mozambique Channel in the west and the Indian Ocean at the east.

phototip: Late afternoon sun has directional light that results to long shadows.
Canon EOS 350D, 0.005s , f/8, 18mm, ISO 100
the St Jean Baptiste Monastery, Joffreville, Diego Suarez (Antsiranana), Madagascar


We stayed in a seemingly new place called The Nature Lodge (www.naturelodge-ambre.com, email naturelodge@wanadoo.mg, tel (+261)320712306, fax (+261 20) 2262213, BP795 Diego Suarez). It has several duplex bungalows scattered around wide flower and vegetable gardens. Dinner and breakfast must be reserved ahead and there was only menu for everybody. Food was fresh, delectable and quite French. As Joffreville is about a thousand meters above sea level, air conditioning is not really required. There was no electricity except when the generator ran at 6PM to 10PM and 6:30AM to 9AM. Staying in the lodge requires you to commune with nature.


Canon EOS 350D, 0.2s, f/4.5, 28mm, ISO 100
a filigree lamp in our room at the Nature Lodge, Joffreville, Diego Suarez (Antsarinana), NE Madagascar

Next on Day 2: Amber Mountain and the city of Diego Suarez

48 hours in Bongao, Tawi-Tawi (Day 2)

continued from Day 1

Simandagat
What’s a visit to Bongao without my prerequisite sunrise scenes? Think of the unique places that could not be found elsewhere like Muslim mosques or traditional Samal houses on stilts.As always, I checked out the map to scout for vantage points so I knew that staying at Beachside Inn which faces southeast the Simandagat beach would be convenient.


phototip: Underexpose a sunrise shot to get silhouettes.
Camera: Canon EOS 350D, 0.4s, f/10, 55mm, ISO 100
at Simandagat, Bongao, Tawi-Tawi, the Philippines


Everyday scenes offer a lot too. You may choose to photograph fishermen pulling out into the sea, subsistent fisherfolks gathering sea urchins or even school children walking to school. I even found one interesting “welcome” dome-shaped archway of a barangay.

phototip: Be patient. For the shot above, I waited for most of the clouds to clear as I wanted only just a few wisps. Negative space can be dramatic especially if the sky was this blue.
Canon EOS 350D Digital, 0.001s, f/5.6, 55mm, ISO100, +1/3 EV
Bongao, Tawi-Tawi, the Philippines


Simunul Island
I strongly suggest getting to Simunul island, an island south of Bongao considered to be the birthplace of Islam in the Philippines. Catch a public boat or charter one if you could afford it. Simunul is less than an hour away.


phototip: Watch out for fleeting scenes. Always be ready for unrehearsed moments. This girl was playing with her home-made toy airplane solo, lost in her own world, while our boat slowly tried to dock.
Canon EOS 350D, 0.001s, f/5.6, 255mm, ISO 100
Tubig Indangan, Simunul Island, Tawi-Tawi, the Philippines


Largely laidback and quiet, Simunul is where the Arab missionary Karimul Sheikh Makhdum built the first mosque in the Philippines in 1380. For obvious reasons, this mosque is revered by Philippine Muslims and every Friday is a designated congregation day for imams and religious folks to come and pray. Already a national monument, visitors are welcome to come inside whether you are Muslim or not. People are accommodating and would gladly show you around. This mosque is sparse but it still proudly houses four 3-feet diameter ipil pillars of the original structure.


Camera: Canon EOS 350D, 0.001s, f/6.3, 34mm, ISO 100
mosque of Makhdum, Tubig Indangan, Simunul Island, Tawi-Tawi, the Philippines


Within the vicinity of the mosque is one of two reputed graveyards of the Sheikh Makhdum. It seems its actual site is in dispute as when I visited Sibutu Island in Sitangkai, there’s another monument there claiming that the Sheikh was buried in the area. Also check out several centuries-old sunduk gravemarkers that are often featured in magazines and books.


Camera: Canon EOS 350D, 0.008s, f/6.3, 21mm, ISO 100
a centuries-old sunduk across the mosque of Makhdum, Tubig Indangan, Simunul Island, Tawi-Tawi, the Philippines


Tango Island
The visit to Simunul will only take you half a day. The afternoon should be spent in any of the sandy beaches and reef that Tawi-Tawi is blessed. My pick of heaven on earth is the islet of Tango with its exceptionally white sand, with nary a cover except for some greens of mangrove and coconut. Surrounded by generous sandbars and emerald waters, it is paradisical. I only saw this island from the plane but I wish I could come over and immerse in its shores.

Canon EOS 350D, 0.002s, f/6.3, 55mm, ISO 100
Tango Island, Bongao, Tawi-Tawi, Philippines


banig
One should not leave Tawi-Tawi without bringing home a banig or handwoven mat from the screwpine palm leaves (called pandan or romblon). The Philippines claims to produce the handsomest mat in Asia and arguably the most colorful and intricate fine-grained mats are handwoven by the Samal tribe of Tawi-Tawi. Preparation takes one week, with at least 2 cycles of boiling, stick-beating, drawing into strips, sun-bleaching and finally dying. Weaving consumes another two to five weeks. The bordered double-layer mats are the most expensive at about $20 each and is valued to 2-3x as much when brought to the big cities of Cebu or Manila. There is a cooperative of weavers which has a stall near the Notre Dame University in Bongao. Or check out the inventory at the Bongao Department of Tourism which also sells woven pandan salakot hats.


Canon PowerShot S40, 0.001s, f/2.8, 7.1mm
Tango Island, Bongao, Tawi-Tawi, Philippines


Saying goodbye to a place after 2 wonderful days can only be sweet if tempered with a promise to return back someday. I never am sure when but I bet there are more nooks to discover in faraway Bongao.


Canon EOS 350D, 0.002s, f/6.3, 25mm, ISO 100
Bongao, Tawi-Tawi, Philippines



Canon EOS 350D, 1/1000s, f/4, 21mm, ISO 100, -1/3EV
an uninhabited island of Tawi-Tawi, the Sulu Archipelago, Autonomous Region of Muslim Mindanao, the Philippines

48 hours in Bongao, Tawi-Tawi (Day 1)

My memories of my first visit in Bongao are vague. I remember waking up to the early dawn Muslim prayers from the numerous mosques around the nondescript inn where I spent the night over. That’s about it. Nada. This was in 1991 and memory can be exceedingly selective at times. I was on my way back from a two week research study in Sitangkai Island, and I was dying for the comfort of home. When I received an invite back to Bongao after more than 15 years, I immediately jumped on the opportunity.

getting there
Let me introduce Bongao first. It is the capital of the province of Tawi-Tawi which is the most south you can get in the Philippines. Any further down and you are in Sabah, Malaysia already. For most Filipinos, the southernmost city one has visited probably is Zamboanga. Well, Zamboanga is only the takeoff point for Bongao which is an hour away by plane (Seair) or about 26 hours by ferry via Jolo.

accommodations
Bongao lies southwest of the main island of Tawi-Tawi. Today, I hear that there are about 3 reputable hostels in Bongao. I have tried Rachel’s Inn in 2005. This is where you would want to be if you need to be in the urban part of the town as it is only walking distance to market, the major schools, eateries and well, the internet café if you want to stay connected. An alternative I would suggest is the Beachside Inn where I stayed in 2006 as it faces the popular Simandagat beach.

security
Filipinos are basically afraid of going down to Muslim Mindanao. Zamboanga scares a lot of Filipinos which is a sad exaggerated reaction from the negative publicity the South is getting. I probably would skip hot spots like Basilan and Jolo but Tawi-Tawi is quite secure. There are always rumors of kidnapping for ransom in most places in the South and Tawi-Tawi has not been spared. If it makes you feel better, you can always visit the army detachment there and request for a military escort. Yes, this can be done.

Day 1
On your first day in Bongao, what better to orient yourself around than take a tour around town. I recommend hiring a tricycle for the day. I doubt if there are cars for hire there anyway.

Canon PowerShot S40, 0.003s, f/2.8, 7.1mm
Bongao, Tawi-Tawi, the Philippines


the old Chinese pier
Start with the Chinese pier. Originally a floating market where goods are peddled on boats, this is the biggest market in Tawi-Tawi which now extends around the vicinity of the U-shaped bay. It owes its name to its pre-Hispanic pre-eminence as a commercial entrepot where the Chinese, Arabs and Filipinos converged and bartered goods. All that are available in Tawi-Tawi go through here so expect an assault of sight, sound, smell and taste.


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 0.033s, f/5.6, 55mm, ISO 100
the old Chinese pier, Bongao, Tawi-Tawi, the Philippines


the Bongao “Capitol”
Atop a hill overlooking the bay is the Bongao municipal hall. Having the tricycle climb the exceedingly steep winding road is a thrill by itself. White and stately, the provincial capitol is a popular destination for the unprecedented view of the poblacion (main town), the airport at Sanga-Sanga and the neighboring islands. Peculiarly, it has a large musholla or Muslim prayer room. It also boasts of white-washed Mughal-inspired minarets at the corners, which strongly remind you that the province after all is part of the Autonomous Region of Muslim Mindanao.

phototip: Use a low angle to utilize the sky as a background.
Canon EOS 350D Digital, 0.001s, f/5.6, 37mm, ISO 400
at the Provincial Capitol of Bongao, Tawi-Tawi, the Philippines


the Muslim gravemarkers
Call me morbid but I egg you to visit any of the old Muslim cemetery in Bongao. Look for the old sunduk grave markers. Tawi-Tawi is a center of the indigenous carving art of ukkil wherein only chisels, hammers and other basic tools are used in executing ornate patterns on stone, coral or wood. Said to be used even before Islamic times and continued in practice even today, the grave markers indicate the sex of the deceased: flat floral scrolls or combs for women and knobbed pillars, often hexagonal, for men. Dating the coral grave markers in historical tombs is difficult unless dates are inscribed. While they have survived the ravages of time and weather, they have not been spared by man’s greed and enterprise. Some of the best examples of these works of art are now found only in archival photographs and museums.

Canon PowerShot S40, 0.025s, f/2.8, 7.1mm
a Muslim cemetery in Bongao, the capital of Tawi-Tawi province, the Philippines


food
Tawi-Tawi, with its more than 100 islands, is inarguably a haven for seafood from fresh fish to prawns to crabs. There are no fancy restaurants so expect to dine in small eateries where food is simply grilled, steamed or fried. There is a sizeable Christian population in Bongao (40%?) but pork consumption is still discreetly done. However, the not-so-secret delicacy of Bongao is cured meat from wild boars which roam freely in the hinterlands. You have to order a day ahead though to partake of the gourmet tapas. Other treats I indulged in were the apam daub daya or apam (I miss this the most!), the miniature tambis or roseapple which I’ve never seen that small, the ukoy-ukoy or vegetable cakes. Ifever I get back to Bongao, I plan on trying the bianban or cassava cake wrapped in ornate coconut leaves, the panggi which is the basic ground cassava staple of the native Sama and Badjaos and any of the other delicacies displayed in the stores by the Chinese pier.

Bud Bongao
Go physical and climb the Bongao Peak, a place sacred to the Muslims. It is Tawi-Tawi’s unmistakeable landmark visible from afar and is kind of reminiscent of the flat-topped Table Mountain of Capetown which I climbed in 2001. Bongao Peak is about 422 meters above sea level and is a relatively easy 2-hour climb were it not for the muddy trail. At the summit are two Muslim graves popular among the locals which unfortunately we only came to know after we got down. Talk about being close yet so far.

Bongao Peak is also a sanctuary of long-tailed macaques. Which brings me to a story.

Canon Canon EOS 350D Digital, 0.125s, f/22, 18mm, ISO 100
Bud Bongao or the Bongao Peak, Bongao, Tawi-Tawi, the Philippines


In 2006, my girlfriend (now wife) and I climbed the peak and midway, we were accosted by a gang of monkeys. The trail was narrow and there was no way to pass through them. As appeasement, I opened my messenger bag to get some bananas. I moved slowly and deliberately. I was careful not show off that I brought a bundle as I wanted to leave some bananas for the other monkeys along the way. All of a sudden, the biggest monkey, probably the alpha male, jumped on me and latched on the bag. With the entire weight of the bag and the monkey bearing down on on my shoulder, I could only freeze. The monkey could not zip open my bag to steal the entire bagful of bananas. While it was not willing to loosen its steely grip, I too was not about to give up my bag either as it contained my telephoto lens, tripod and some other accessories. The standoff seemed like eternity. Finally I mustered the courage to zip open the bag and promptly, the monkey grabbed the entire stash of bananas and scampered away. Sweating profusely and trembling from the adrenalin rush, we didn’t know what to do. We were alone. The monkeys may have left us but we were sure that there would be more monkeys along the way. Between going back or proceeding without any more banana “gifts”, we decided to continue. Maybe the next batch of monkeys were already tame or were forewarned that we were “generous”, the rest of monkeys we met were no longer aggressive. They did hover and trail us eerily from a distance as if we were pied pipers but they allowed us in. Even the descent was without any drama so it was strange how monkeys can become confrontational then become docile the next.



travel tip: If you would climb Bongao peak, do not forget the bananas!
Canon EOS 350D, 0.013s, f/4.5, 75mm, ISO 800
a long-tail macaque guarding the Bongao Peak, Bongao, Tawi-Tawi, Philippines


seaside dining
Just at the foot of Bongao Peaks are at least two beach resorts that offer local foodfare. I remember that the beach was already facing west so I took the opportunity to shoot some sunset photos. The colors of the setting sun, the shape-shifting forms of the clouds and the images of fishermen rushing home are always rewarding.

Canon EOS 350D Digital, 0.002s, f/5.6, 300mm, ISO 100, +1/3EV
Bongao, Tawi-Tawi, the Philippines

Next: Day 2

Portraits in the Temple (Ngusabe Sukawati, part 1)

I travel to Bali at least four times a year. It’s work but going back to Bali is warm comfort. My close friends there are almost family, the places are mighty familiar and the language, at least the nationally spoken Bahasa Indonesia, is easy to speak (I only have a smidgen of Balinese).

So one hot and humid August afternoon, I found myself in Sukawati. I had one warehouse to inspect. That day also coincidentally happened to be the Ngusabe ceremony of the nearby big temple of Pura Dalem Gede Sukawati. My friend Komang told me that unlike other temple anniversary parades, the meped of Sukawati has a unique feature: the womenfolk actually would dress up in finery more grand than I would expect. I had to see it then. To most, women’s regular temple wear of kamben sarung (sheath or cloth wrapped or tied around the waist) and kebaya (long-sleeved top, often made of lacy, sheer or light material) is already not your typical Western Sunday dress. How more splendid can these costumes be?


travel tip: For the foreigner, wear Balinese attire to get inside the temples.
Canon PowerShot S40, 0.025s, f/5, 14.7mm
women in traditional temple kebaya and kamben wear, Pura Gelgel, Klungkung, Bali, Indonesia


Just before 3PM, with the car parked by the warehouse, we walked to the temple, an easy 3 block distance. I already changed to Balinese getup – I always have one handy when in Bali – so I was able to go inside the temple with the templegoers who were filing in. I know the routine: people progressively enter a series of enclosed courtyards until they finally get ushered in the innermost square. The whole temple could barely accommodate a thousand worshippers at one time so the tens of thousands of people visit the temple at different times of the day on their own convenient time. Just like Catholic mass during Sundays in the Philippines, temple blessing rites are repeated in cycles the whole day.


phototip: Ask permission to take photographs. Balinese live under the periscope of tourism so often, they would be friendly to photographers and tourists.
Canon EOS 350D, 0.006s, f/5.0, 180mm, ISO 400
Sukawati, Bali, Indonesia


However, I was more excited about the late afternoon meped parade. After taking pictures of the rituals inside the temple, I waited outside the gate. My excitement was building up. Slowly, women of all ages started arriving and as my friend Komang warned me, in severely formal garments that I normally associate with wedding or tooth-filing ceremonies.


phototip: Crouch low to shoot girls at or below the kids’ eye level. The angle prevents distortion.
Canon EOS 350D, 0.025s, f/5.6, 18mm, ISO 100, uncropped
Sukawati, Bali, Indonesia


From girls as young as six to seniors in their seventies, the women were resplendent. Instead of a baju or kebaya, women wore the anteng, a long strip of stiff gilded prada/perada cloth bound around their torso like a tube. Some had part of the anteng fabric draped over the left shoulder and some wore a selendang shawl. Their kamben sarung skirts were long, punctuated with a mermaid’s tail that literally had to be dragged mercilessly on the ground. Some women even wore an underskirt tapih which only shows when walking. Their sabuk sash also had the same gold leaf pattern. Aside from traditional jewelry and makeup, they also wore gold or silver leaf hairpins arranged around bouffant beehive hairdos like a crown and I know that they are heavy.


phototip: I find most Balinese to have difficulty in smiling freely in front of the camera. It could be restraint, formality or just shyness. Coax and coach your subject.
Canon EOS 350D, 0.008s, f/5, 135mm, ISO 400, uncropped
Sukawati, Bali, Indonesia

Balinese ceremonial wear is not a dictate of fashion but is a prescription of function and symbolism. Temple attire in Hindu Bali is strictly prescribed and followed. The belief is that there are body parts that should be exposed, harnessed, or covered up and the proper dress helps fulfill these conventional codes. Which makes me realize how meanings evolve over time as I’ve been told that up to the early 1900s, Balinese women went topless until the Dutch decreed them to go “moral” and cover up.


phototip: A pretty subject never hurts. This girl happens to be the granddaughter of a lady storeowner from whom I ordered wooden invitation boxes and souvenir gift chests for my wedding last April.
Canon EOS 350D, 0.008s, f/5.6, 45mm, ISO 100
at Pura Delem Gede Sukawati, Bali, Indonesia


But how much does this getup cost? A lot. There are those who can afford and invest on their own garments. Nowadays however, families mostly rent the costumes and headdresses from local providers. Makeup often come with the package which can run from $15 to $25/day depending on the ostentation. One thing that needs to be said though is that the Balinese have adapted to the times. In the past I’ve read that perada fabrics really use real gold which means that they cannot be washed nor laundered. Nowadays, gold or silver paint is applied unto the stiff cotton so I am not sure about “no wash” part.


phototip: Switching to black and white eliminates the distraction of color and evokes timelessness.
Canon EOS 350D, 0.33s, f/5.6, 52mm, ISO 100, +1/3EV, uncropped
Sukawati, Bali, Indonesia

Part 2: The Meped Parade

My Christmas nostalgia

Tomorrow is Christmas so there is that irreversible sense of anticipation. On the reverse side, there is an anticlimactic sense that the season for the merriment will soon be over. But I am no party pooper so my brain is all for the excitement that Christmas brings: the conspicuous parties, the visits with family, the over-the-top decorations and the consumption of way too much food.

Christmas will be different to everybody and in my case, celebrations has taken on different meanings over time.

the “ber” months

Filipinos love to celebrate and consider life as a series of one fiesta to the next. Christmas is notoriously celebrated early. Christmas starts when the months already sport a –ber, as in September when Christmas carols will be piped in by some enterprising stores. Even another competitively big holiday like November 1, when people flock to the cemeteries, could hardly make a break to the Christmas spirit.

Christmas is never far away. Flashback to April 2002, which in the Philippines is hot summer (and December is a cold rainy month). I was rummaging in a stall in the public market of Baguio when I saw something surprisingly familiar tucked at a corner: a traditional Christmas star lantern called parol. This was no ordinary lantern of paper, wood or plastic but the famous Pampanga capiz lantern, made of wooden and wire skeleton frame and covered with colored capiz (mother of pearl) shells. More distinguishably, this has built-in tivoli lights that chase and blink in a synchronizing dance. Of course I got a good discount as December was still 9 months away. Packing and getting it on a plane, first to Cebu and eventually to NY, was a pain though. The US Customs inspector eyed it with interest but at least now my sister has an authentic centerpiece in her apartment.


travel tip: Pack fragile items in a light box which shows the handlers what is inside. I wrapped this parol with carton that was thin, almost flimsy, clearly outlining the breakable package, so it was segregated from the heavy bulk of regular cargo.
Canon PowerShot S40, 0.5s, f/2.8, 7.1mm
Astoria, New York, the US


when we create our own parol

There is a subject for boys in Philippine grade school called Practical Arts. In this course, we were taught how to use the saw, the hammer and the paintbrush. Girls, on the other hand, were enrolled in Home Economics where they learn how to stitch, cook and clean house. (Later though in the late 80s, courses were turned coed). One of the few chores that boys and girls had to do together was making the parol. We started with paper and carton lanterns in early and graduated to fancy bamboo stars as you got older. I distinctly remember the trick to tidy up the cellophane covering the wooden frame which is to wipe the plastic lightly with water which tightens it up upon drying. When I saw this wet lantern that got rained on, I got a sense déjà vu.


phototip: Fill the frame with colors- so much like Christmas.
Canon EOS 350D, 0.008s, f/5.6, 43mm, ISO 100, -1/2 EV
Mabolo, Cebu City, Philippines


decorations

We always do our own Christmas decorations at home. One of my most vivid memories was making our own paper snowflakes by cutting patterns on folded paper. My younger brother and I did not even use colored paper, just plain white bond paper which was what we can afford. We tried to fold and store them with the intent of reusing them the next year. We never did actually but the remembrance of fun lingers to this day.

Now grownup, I agree that convenience takes precedence. Depending on your budget, one can go simple or ostentatious. Ornamentation can literally be overwhelming, especially that in most Filipino households, decorations are recycled year in and out so the collections pile up. It still gives me some serious sense of guilt to throw away decorations that have seen better days.


Canon EOS 350D, 0.006s, f/5.6, 300mm, ISO 1600, +1/3EV
classy antiqued ornamentation at the Balay na Tisa, Carcar City, Cebu, the Philippines


Christmas caroling

Music is a part of Christmas. Before the advent of the internet, there were no available lyric sheets of Christmas carols. I raided the public library – I think I was nine then – but books on Christmas songs were scant. So my siblings and I tried to record the carols played on the FM radio and playback the cassette tapes several times to catch the lyrics of our favorite tunes.

Another experience every Filipino kid is sure to pass is caroling. Singing Christmas carols in the street is a ready fund-raising venture for everyone. My parents were fairly strict and disallowed me and my siblings from joining the neighborhood daygon (the Cebuano term for caroling). It was only when I was an adult that I got to participate in a more “pro” endeavor. Yes, caroling extends to all ages and cuts all social classes.

the lights

There was a time too when Christmas lights were not disposable. We call them series in reference to its electrical configuration. As the wirings were thick and sturdy, they were a tad expensive so busted lights are just replaced the following year and many a street repairmen could earn a nice living fixing “series” during the season. Now, lights come cheap and some 50 series lights can come by for only half a dollar. Repairing them is more expensive than a brand new one. Do be careful though as quality is wanting and they may overheat and cause a nasty fire.


phototip: For fun, there are cheap “neon” ornamentation like these divine blinking necklaces which cost P20 each ($0.50). Throw them inside an empty crystal ice bucket and take some photos at relatively slow exposure speed. The colors and lights will do choreography.
Canon EOS 350D, 2.5s, f/6.3, 49mm, ISO 100
Mandaue City, Cebu, the Philippines


the Christmas tree

In the Philippines, there would hardly be any live tree. The tropics are not known for evergreens and if there were some in the highlands, wouldn’t it be environmentally egregious to cut down what is rare? Anyway, we rely on everything but the real thing. There are mangrove varieties called pagatpat whose overturned roots make up a lovely form. It was popular then to cover it with thick suds of white soap (gladfully, this is passé now). Some preferred trees made of stiff grass (are they still around?) that can come in various heights. Spray-painted or dyed in green, they do resemble the fir tree but the “leaves” were so densely packed that ornaments can only be attached outside and none in the interior. Today, plastic is the norm and as everything else does, they come from China.

When I had my first Christmas outside of the Philippines, I finally had my taste of the first real tree. It was at my sister’s apartment in New York. I even helped choose and lug the real 7 foot balsam fir- a Frasier I think- on my shoulders 2 blocks to her home. Feels different, grand even. It is a living thing, for you have to water it daily (well, actually my brother was assigned that chore and not not me!).


phototip: Play with curves to convey movement.
Canon EOS 350D, 1s, f/5, 18mm, ISO 100
ornaments in a real Christmas tree, Astoria, Queens, New York, the US

the gifts

So they say that Christmas are for kids and in us, there is always that inner child wanting to come out of our cynical hardened shells. We probably may no longer share that giddy exhilaration of opening what’s inside a Christmas gift but hopefully, we can empathize in the joy of gift giving. Every year, we dig a deep financial hole for ourselves as we overspend for gifts for almost everyone - for our peers, family, friends or fkinugos or godchildren. I rather still like the tradition of opening any gift I receive on Christmas day. I may cheat and take a peek what’s inside but tearing open the packages on the 25th unleashes a primal joy that only that day can deliver.

Maybe this is what I felt in the photo below. There is something universal in the boy's wonderment. Oblivious to the chaotic shoppers around him, he stood transfixed to the speeding toy train. Neither his playful sister nor his parents had an easy time ungluing him from the frolic before him. To his eyes, this was the only world at that very instant. Maybe that is what Christmas joy should be.


phototip: Shooting through a glass is tricky because of glare. Keep your lens as close to the glass as much as possible to keep off stray light.
Canon EOS 350D, 0.25s, f/5.6, 55mm, ISO 400, -1/32EV, uncropped
at the MTA train exhibition at the Grand Central Station, Manhattan, New York, the US

Simbang gabi and the belen

There is one Filipino Christmas tradition that I am too lazy to join as an adult- the Simbang Gabi. It is that early 4AM novena mass leading to Christmas eve. I am sure I was dragged to attend some when I was a kid. Maybe I will resume the tradition when I will have a family of my own, I don’t know. What I am certain is that my younger brother is always quite up to the challenge, probably because he celebrates his birthday when the Simbang Gabi starts on December 16. (In the Philippines, you must hear mass when it is your birthday).

Christmas Day is a holy day of obligation. For Filipinos, Christmas is the biggest religious celebration (not Easter which orthodoxically should be) so religious services are said the whole day as if it were Sunday. And churches would be fully decked too. Featured most prominently would be the Christmas creche which we call the belen. The nativity scene is the centerpiece and as tradition calls, Filipino kids will often line up to kiss the baby Jesus.


Canon EOS 350D, 0.025s, f/4.5, 25mm, ISO 800
inside the Most Precious Blood Church, Astoria, Queens, New York, the US

the family

Traditions don’t just come and go. They evolve as you make sense of their worth. For five years, I have been celebrating Christmas in New York. My sister lives there and my brother always comes over from wherever he is, then in Texas, now in Seattle. My mom and I would then trek from Cebu to the wintry Big Apple to be together as families always should at this time of the year.

Things have changed. I got married this year and since she’s expecting, we cannot travel. Nonetheless, I still cherish the bond that ties us together. As platitudes go, Christmas resides in the heart and we still have many Christmases to share together in the future.


Photo tip: Incorporate reflections on the glass in the picture.
Canon EOS 350D, 0.017s, f/5.6, 55mm, ISO 1600, -1/2EV
window display at Teuscher Chocolates, 25 E 61st St, New York, the US