The Road to Bromo, part 4

the horsemen of Tengger

continued from The Road to Bromo
part 1
part 2
part 3

The Caldera of Tengger is a wonder to behold. Sitting 2,000 meters above sea level, it is a cauldron of fine volcanic from which numerous peaks rose, the most famous of which is Bromo.




Around this basin are pockets of communities which still subscribe to the old Hindu-Javanese religion. These highlands after all became the Hindus’ refuge during the ascendancy of Islamic rule in the 15th century. Today, this indigenous group of Tengger still practice a religion that is a mixture of Javanese animism, Buddhism and Hinduism, with some influence from Islam.




The people are a hardy lot, being used to the demands of living and working in such a high elevation. The main livelihood is agriculture (vegetable, fruits) although tourism is fast developing employment sector.




The men folk are known for their equestrian skill. While their native horses are small and look more like ponies, the Tengger horsemen are industrious, waking up in the early hours of dawn, to tend farms and pasture. Just before sunrise breaks, they generally would gravitate towards the caldera, offering their horses for as little as $5 dollars for the 3 kilometer ride to the brim of Bromo.




While the Tenggers are pretty much known for their tolerance and acceptance of strangers, they still generally keep to themselves. Their sense of pride is so strong that they generally resist attempts to part with their land even when the bids are high.




Their land is Tengger and they like to keep it that way.

the beauties of Sinulog 2009

What is a Sinulog blog without an album of beautiful ladies? Beauty spotting is a photographic sport and there is nothing like the Sinulog to bring in a multitude of Filipinas who bring charm and allure to the festival. Best of all, they are there for the show, willing to be put under the looking glass. For once, we can photograph them with impunity.


Sinulog 2009 Festival Queen and her Court

A relatively new tradition, the Sinulog Festival Queen competition is unique for it is a pageant only for lead dancers of a contingent participating in the street parade. Wearing the most outlandish and humongous of dresses reminiscent of international beauty contest’s National Costumes, the lead dancers are presented in a showdown of dancing prowess and wit. Winning this year’s competition is a a winsome lass from Tangub, Misamis Occidental followed by representatives of Dulag, Leyte and Sta Catalina, Negros Oriental.



Iris Mae Linganay of Sinanduloy Cultural Troupe, Tangub City, Misamis Occidental- Sinulog 2009 Festival Queen
Canon EOS 5D Digital, 1/160s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 50, +2/3EV



Ariane May Briones of Tribu Karatong, Dulag, Leyte- Sinulgo 2009 Festival Queen 1st Runner-up
Canon EOS 5D Digital, 1/100s, f/5.6, 55mm, ISO 50, +2/3EV



Alfe Marie Nathaniel Uy of Pakol Festival of Sta Catalina, Negros Oriental and Sinulog 2009 Festival Queen 2nd Runner-up
Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/800s, f/5.6, 55mm, ISO 400


more lead dancers of the contingents

I’ve always wondered why is it that the star dancer chosen among a bevy of performers also happen to be not just the most graceful but also the most gorgeous? Does nature automatically grant terpsichorean skill to the beautiful?



the lead dancer of Lumad Basakanon, Cebu City
Canon EOS 5D Digital, 1/125s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 50, +1/3EV



the lead dancer of Tribu Kabatok of Tacloban City, Leyte
Canon EOS 5D Digital, 1/400s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 50, +1/3EV



the lead dancer of Karasikas Performing Arts Guild of Borongan City, Samar
Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/400s, f/5.6, 55mm, ISO 400, +1/3EV



the lead dancer of Tribu Buyogan of Abuyog, Leyte
Canon EOS 5D Digital, 1/160s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 50, +1/3EV



the lead dancer of Lanao del Norte
Canon EOS 5D Digital, 1/400s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 50, +2/3EV



the lead dancer of the Cebu City guest contingent (?)
Canon EOS 5D Digital, 1/200s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 50, +1/3EV



the lead dancer of Pajo Elementary School, Lapu-Lapu City
Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/50s, f/13, 22mm, ISO 400, -1/3EV



the lead dancer of Lahug Elementary School
Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/30s, f/9.0, 18mm, ISO 200



lead dancer of Tribu Magrararug of Punta Princesa Elementary School
Canon EOS 5D Digital, 1/50s, f/3.2, 100mm, ISO 50, +1/3EV



a lead dancer of one of the contingents
Canon EOS 5D Digital, 1/400s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 50, +4/3EV


choice dancers

Among the numerous dancers of a contingent, a few also stood out. Charisma, after all, cannot be hidden for long.



a dancer of Kawayan Elementary School of Dalaguete
Canon EOS 5D Digital, 1/800s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 50



a member of the San Diego Dance Company
Canon EOS 5D Digital, 1/160s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 50, +2/3EV



a member of contingent from the Municipality of Carmen
Canon EOS 5D Digital, 1/160s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 50, +2/3EV


the Sinulog 2009 series includes
the Sinulog Saturday procession and fireworks
Sinulog 2009 grand street parade part 1 (winners),
part 2 (the Sinulog-based contingents)
part 3 (the Free Interpretation contingents), and
the Sinulog beauties

Sinulog Saturday 2009 is family time

If Sinulog Sunday were meant for the biggest streetdancing of Cebu (and arguably in the Philippines as well), Sinulog Saturday is for family. It is the day devoted for the solemn procession, set apart from the commercialization and revelry of the Sinulog fiesta. Traditions tend to ground us in a world of changes and our family keeps religious observances close to heart.

We skipped the daybreak fluvial parade this year as the early morning schedule was too disruptive for our daughter Cacing. Instead, we headed to the city only during lunch for a mini-reunion with relatives on my mom’s side.


the 2-way MJ Cuenco St was filled with procession-goers along the 5 km circular route
Canon EOS 5D, 1/200s, f/1.8, 50mm, ISO 50


The route this year was quite long. At about 5 kilometers, this was more than double last year’s. Instead of our usual camp-out at the Metropolitan Cebu Cathedral parking area, my aunts found an old house of a relative at the juncture of T. Padilla St and MJ Cuenco. We considered ourselves lucky to have a convenient place to stay as we opted out of the procession this year. Cacing doesn’t really enjoy the stroller and we could not carry her all throughout the procession. Indeed, while the procession started at around 1 PM, it took about 2 hours for the head of procession to pass by us. Some 30 minutes later, at past 3:30, the Sto Niño carroza arrived. The church obviously made it a mission to usher the Sto Niño back to the Basilica early. About a million people was estimated to have joined the procession and it wasn’t until about 5PM when we saw the tailend of the procession.


people waving to the Sto Niño
Canon EOS 5D, 1/200s, f/1.8, 50mm, ISO 50


As reunions go, ties were renewed and tales were swapped. I had idle time with my camera. My nieces and nephews became willing models and I enjoyed photographing them. I am sharing here few of the shots.


Jasmine
Canon EOS 5D, 1/200s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 100




IK
Canon EOS 5D, 1/1250s, f/2.8, 100 mm, ISO 1600




IC
Canon EOS 5D, 1/50s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 640


To cap the day, we proceeded to the SM Mall and had dinner with old flickr friends Maning and Tet. At 8PM, we went up to the SM roof deck to watch the 1st Sinulog Pyrotechnics Competition.


my aunt’s Sto Niño which she brought for the procession
Canon EOS 5D, 1/400s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 3200

As pyrotechnics go, I’ve seen more impressive fireworks but then, I really wasn’t expecting anything grand, what with the current economic crunch. Too bad, I was ready with my tripod as I’ve never photographed fireworks before.


a captive audience before a fireworks-lit night sky
Canon EOS 350D Digital, 2.0s, f/3.5, 18mm, ISO 800


After the presentation of the third contestant, I decided to go home. It was getting late and Cacing already was asleep. We left SM just before traffic turned horrendous and made it home at 9:30 PM.


part of the pyrotechnic display at SM
Canon EOS 350D Digital, 3.2s, f/4, 18mm, ISO 800

My colds were also getting terrible so sleep was much welcomed. The street parade the next day would be big and I wasn’t about to miss that.

the Sinulog 2009 series includes
the Sinulog Saturday procession and fireworks
Sinulog 2009 grand street parade part 1 (winners),
part 2 (the Sinulog-based contingents)
part 3 (the Free Interpretation contingents), and
the Sinulog beauties

Portraits of Tanzania

Portraiture is a peek into someone’s life, personality and story. Emotions can be frozen, tales can be imagined and relationships can be connected through photography. My Canon 350D Rebel, my first dSLR, was just a week old when I traveled to Tanzania in November of 2005, a country in East Africa I have visited twice in the past. I took some time to do some street photography and here are some portraits and their stories.

hint of a smile

There's a certain magnetic sadness in the shopkeeper’s smile. I was buying some souvenirs in a store in Dar when I saw one of the lady tenders sitting in a corner, alone and still. I asked permission to take her photo. i took her silence as a yes and she did not move really when I took pictures of her. She just sat there, staring, looking straight into the camera, perhaps curious at my curiousity in her.


Mwegne market, Dar es Salaam, Tanzania, East Africa
Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/30s, f/5.6, 24mm, ISO 100


colorful clothes

These children were whiling their time in front of the seaweed buying station at Paje Beach. Their mothers were busy sorting the seaweed and manually baling 100kg of seaweed. The tide difference in Tanzania is 8-10 meters and there are only 2 (extreme) low tides in a month which allows for the women to plant and harvest the crop farmed almost a kilometer into the sea. I between low tides, it is the turn for the men to fish for seaweed farming for them is too feminine. Ahh, culture.


Paje, Zanzibar, East Africa
Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/80s, f/4.5, 34mm, ISO 100


making something for himself

There is one moment in the a tour in Zanzibar which rent my heart even up to now. This boy was the most eager one who greeted us at the last stop of the tour- the fruit stalls. It turned out that he was not pining for commissions from any potential sales but was enthusiastic to learn Italian from our guide. We obliged and let the guide free for 30 minutes while he answered the questions the boy peppered rapidly. His dictionary after all was Italian-English and not Italian-Swahili. Later the guide shared to us that he always hope to get a spice tour as he has developed a brotherly affection for the boy. Apparently, the guide learned Italian and English the hard way- by toiling at an Italian-owned restaurant and conversing with guests. Once, he too could not afford formal lessons.


Kzembani-Kdechi, Zanzibar, Tanzania, East Africa
Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/30s, f/5.6, 21mm, ISO 100


responsibility

In Tanzania, as well as in any other developing country, everybody helps out. Child labor? No, it is responsibility- only that stakes are high. School, free it may be, is even a luxury if your parents don't pull their own weight. It was lunchbreak so this boy dutifully went to the warehouse straight from school to pick up used sacks that were earlier delivered full of dried seaweed. Polypropylene sacks don't come cheap. They have to be imported all the way from afar (the Philippines, Indonesia, Dubai) and warehouses give them out sparingly. So you take care of what was given to you and make sure you get to use them for another day.


Paje, Zanzibar, Tanzania, East Africa
Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/320s, f/5.6, 31mm, ISO 100


girl in hijab

She was a student going home to school. It was lunchtime and school was on a break. I found the seed on her lower lip fascinating. It was pomegranate I think. Why the schoolgirl left it there escaped me. There must some lingering tartness or sweetness that it imparts for I don't think she was oblivious of its presence.


Paje, Southeast Zanzibar, Tanzania, East Africa
Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/400s, f/5.0, 44mm, ISO 100


public runway

Why did they pose for me? They were across the public market at Dar when they saw me and my camera. I had a ready smile I guess and a faster camera. They began posing and the street became their catwalk. Their eager smiles were a gem.


at the public market at Dar es Salaam, Tanzania, East Africa
Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/200s, f/10, 55mm, ISO 100

Bali Arts Festival 2008- part 6

I find it hard to time my trips to Indonesia because of the demands of my job. Fortunately, I need to visit Bali quite often, at least 4 times a year. This frequency gives me plenty of opportunity to catch the Bali Arts Festival which is held every year for a span of 4 weeks, usually around July.

Even way back in the 90s, I was a fan. I would sneak out at night to catch the festival’s free cultural shows, view art exhibits and check out the handicrafts products in the trade fair (always on bargain).

My most memorable performance to date was the wayang kulit a popular form of shadow theatre featuring flat cut-out leather (=kulit) puppets mounted on sticks. Played for both art and entertainment, the wayang shows are often enactments of religious Hindu mythology blended with historical facts. The Balinese to this date patronize this old theatrical form even if they are played all night long in villages. I only saw an abbreviated version but I was totally enraptured. It was as pure, if not as primitive as I imagined it to be. A blanket of white was stretched as a white screen and coconut-husk lamp was used as the illuminating fire. Over gamelan accompaniment, the dalang or puppeteer chanted the morality tale in Balinese. I did not understand most of the story but I was entranced nonetheless.

Unfortunately, I don’t have a good photograph of the performance as this was way back in 2002, pre-flickr and before I knew anything about camera settings. The photo below is in fact only 26KB as it was taken from the most rudimentary of p&s digicams available during that time.


a wayang kulit performance at the Bali Arts Festival 2002, Denpasar, Bali, Indonesia
Olympus C900Z,D400Z, 5.6mm, ISO 100


Checking my archive of photographs, I also remembered that the following year, I was able to catch another performance. This time it was a free interpretation dance held at the ampitheatre of the Bali Arts Center in Denpasar, the regular site of the festival. The Festival does not just present classical but also new dance forms. Not surprisingly, the performances were well attended. There were a few tourists but the crowd were mostly Balinese, young and old. That is what is heartening with the Balinese as a people – they appreciate and embrace art. Local patronage is never wanting.


tari kreasi lepas performance at the Bali Arts Festival 2003, Denpasar, Bali, Indonesia
Canon PowerShot S40, 1/60s, f/4.9, 21.3mm


In the course of the month-long festival, performances from provincial cultural troupes outside of Bali would also be highlighted. They obviously keep the festival fresh with new ideas. Lucky for me too as normally, I would not be able to visit these farflung provinces but in Bali, I was able to watch authentic performances. In 2005, for instance, I enjoyed thoroughly a presentation from Flores island. I was amazed at the bulky costumes and large drums that the group transported all the way to Bali.


a dance performance by Flores dancers in the 2005 Bali Arts Festival, Denpasar, Bali, Indonesia
Canon PowerShot S40, 1/15s, f/4.5, 17.5mm


This being the main cultural exposition event of Indonesia, the Festival also attracts the guest performances from other countries. This year, the international representation came from the US, Japan, Taiwan and Korea. Too bad, I was not able to catch any as last month, I left shortly after the opening day of the Festival.

But again, there will be some other chances in the future. I certainly hope to see more in the years ahead.

*******
Here are more photographs from this year’s Bali Arts Festival opening day meped.


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/13s, f/20, 31mm, ISO 200



Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/10s, f/22, 55mm, ISO 200



Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/15s, f/14, 21mm, ISO 200



Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/2500s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 400, -1/3EV



Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/1000s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 400, +1/3EV



Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/1000s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 400



Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/800s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 200, +1/3EV

Bali Arts Festival 2008- part 5

black and white

I did the calculations. I have 21 black and white pictures to date in my flickr account. That represents only 1.3% of my 1,655 photos (public and private).

So I prefer colors. The wilder, the better. The more vivid, the more attractive. There are occasions – and they come few and far between – when I see photos in b&w light and I would then convert the colored originals into b&w.

Such sentiment came to me with these portraits at the Bali Arts Festival Opening Parade. I can volunteer three reasons on the b&w decision.

1. First is to eliminate the distraction of color. B&W allows the eyes to focus on the subject and the prevailing mood of the composition. All the subjects are male and I felt that masculinity is served in strong contrasts and almost inscrutable shadows.


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/100s, f/5.0, 230mm, ISO 100, -1/3EV


2. Second is to recreate timelessness. Time was when b&w was the norm so monochromes evoke nostalgia like no other.


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/500s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 400, +1/3EV


3. Third is a reason that is innately Balinese. In the island’s Hindu culture, the combination of black and white, as evident in the ubiquitous poleng black and white checked cloths which are draped all over statues, pavilions and even trees, represents cosmic duality. Light and darkness could not be more universal and specific at the same time.


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/250s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 100, -2/3EV

Bali Arts Festival 2008- part 4

It is never easy to get close to strangers as it is instinctive for everyone to preserve some measure of personal space. However, nothing is more public than a festival parade where the participants aim to entertain. In a seemingly endless stream of dancers of various colors, shape and form, there will always be those who would stand out. Getting noticed by photographers then becomes a compliment.

Here are some of my favorite portrait shots in the opening parade, marked not only by the colors, a given as this is Bali, but also by the insights into the mind of the subject in particular and to their culture in general.

One of the more fascinating candid portraits I got was this lady. That is not her hand but of a friend who was perhaps fixing a stray eyelash. The traditional eye makeup of Balinese ladies is not wanting of color. Where there is space, they will paint. Balinese dance is characterized by rapid eye movement, where the eyes are bulged out and darted side to side. Super colorful eyelids therefore add impact and Balinese dancers feel bare without the full cover of paint.


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/500s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 400


There was contingents resembling jungle men and boys. A “green” group of boys came wrapped in verdant vines and coconut leaves. One contingent of kids and men came in a full shawl of dry banana leaves creating a sea of brown movement as they glide along the road. I remember asking this guy where they are from and he said Tabanan.


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/30s, f/10, 39mm, ISO 200, +2/3EV


The appeal of the Festival is multigenerational. One group of warriors brandishing spears came with men of all ages, from teenagers to seniors. Their face paint of white matched well with their their garb of sacred cloth of black and white checks. Of course, there is the ubiquitous flower behind their ears. Balinese don’t find this effeminate. I’ve seen several adult men pick a flower and then tuck them behind an ear as if it is the most natural thing for them to do. It is.


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/500s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 200, +1/3EV


Another favorite subject of mine is this man. He belongs to a troupe dressed up as the monkey army. In the beloved Hindu epic of Ramayana, the kidnapped heroine Sita was rescued by the monkey army led by its general Hanuman. The monkey is therefore venerated in Bali, as evidenced by several monkey temples and sanctuaries all over the island and the numerous statuaries dedicated to Hanuman.


Canon EOS 350D Digital, 1/1000s, f/2.8, 100mm, ISO 400, +1/3EV